Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I want to get an FMIC for my r32 gts-t soon enough and it already have highflowed turbo so boost aint around 4500rpm mark so i want to step up a little. I am concerned with cooler piping lengh and i thought up a little idea in my head that the same side inlet/outlet would be good with custom piping... could make lengh alot shorter, and no cutting holes under battery tray and save over 1m of piping not needed.

Just wondering if anyone could recommend some good brands that make them.. im finding it hard to find.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TURBO-INTER...sspagenameZWD2V

Any opinions on this??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176455-fmic/
Share on other sites

think about it serioulsy, the air for that cooler still has to go all the whole length of the intercooler back up to the engine

the only difference is that its part of the cooler, no piping, so it looks like less piping...

i put a cheap fmic on. i have about 200 to maybe 250rpm's more lag, which isn't noticable unless i'm studying the guages

however retaining stock piping and not cutting holes definately has its ups! i was looking to go this route but couldnt justify it when justjap sells their kits for $350ish and ebay can be cheaper (and dodgey too!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176455-fmic/#findComment-3228386
Share on other sites

my mate has a 33 with a similar cooler to that, but a bigger and better version. i dislike the design. the air travels in, does a 90 degree turn, travels through the core, does another 90 degree turn then comes out. in my opinion it just slows the air flow down to much. that is why i like the hybrid style coolers. they keep the air flowing in a good direction. no sharp turns inside the cooler. and the apexi and blits ones have a 90 degree bend in them, but it is in the piping, not in the core.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176455-fmic/#findComment-3228663
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...