Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I know this is not a very car issue, but hoping someone can help me here.

I've sorta recently moved to the suburb of Fisher and just got my phopne line connected.

Telstra told me that they could supply ADSL2 from the Weston Creek Exchange.

Now being as expensive as Bigpond is I've been trying to find another ADSL2 provider with not much luck at all.

(all said no, except for Exetel which said they don't have any ports left and need to wait for someone to cancel their account first)

so 2 questions,

1) anyone out in Weston Creek Exchange with ADSL2 and if so, who with?

2) if no ADSL2, who do you guys go with for normal ADSL?

Cheers

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176924-broadband-is-weston-creek-exchange/
Share on other sites

Thanks, but already have and even did a search on 'Weston' and there wasn't much.

Also did a search on what providers were available for my number, but just want to see what people around the area think and have.

cheers

Try this.

http://www.adsl2exchanges.com.au/providere...hp?Location=ACT

http://www.adsl2exchanges.com.au/viewexcha...p?Exchange=WECK

To be honest, I'm an Internode man - despite the recent price rise. You get what you pay for, and with internode you get outstanding quality of service and quite possibly the best Call Centre system in the universe (you leave them a message and they call you back corresponding to your point in the queue).

Failing internode, probably westnet.

That said, in Canberra, I found that using TransACT 2mb/512 link via Velocity Internet was the best fit for me.

Edited by nsanity
To be honest, I'm an Internode man - despite the recent price rise. You get what you pay for, and with internode you get outstanding quality of service and quite possibly the best Call Centre system in the universe (you leave them a message and they call you back corresponding to your point in the queue).

'Node for the win man.

I'm in Bonython and there's no ADSL2 here either =(

Thanks guys for the info. Went with IInet transit plan in the end after ringing around with no luck with ADSL2.

just hope it all works.

Good luck with that.

;)

iinet have been less than spectacular of late (like the last few years).

Damn, after all the efforts, I got rejected from over 8 ISPs. Looks like since I'm 4kms from the Weston Creek exchange no one can supply me with ADSL1 or ADSL2. pissing me off alittle since they all say they can supply it, but when they try to connect they can't.

I'll have to go for Cable either via Telstra or Transact. Even Optus doesn't supply Cable there.

Life is sucking alot at the moment, no Net, no GTR, no spare time, Grrrrrr.

Hope no one else out there has as much problem as me.

Hope no one else out there has as much problem as me.

The house i just bought in Curtin is able to get ADSL 2 which makes me a very happy kid :thumbsup:

I have lost it multiple times at various ISP's over the fact that the suburb i am currently in is surrounded by suburbs which have ADSL 2+ but no not mine dslkjgsdjlkgfsld

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...