Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It doesn't usually work very well. There are 2 options I forget, my mechanic set them both to 10%. It improved slightly, but not all that much. Changing your decelaration habits is the best way to stop it happening.

Edit: I think the setting is "Dec. Air" and has Lo and Hi settings or something.

Originally posted by Grim

Thanks but the safc is capable of correcting the problem...

As I already said, no it's not. You may see some improvement as I did, but also as with me and most other people it won't cure it. Set both settings to10% and see how you go.

Guest INASNT

grim u rice boy did u get a atmo venting bov??

remember we tried to set the dec air function with my blitz atmo and the s-afc?? if u dont remember, well it didnt work, it seemed like it worked but when u do a cold start the engine wont idle properly, its goes all crazy. In the end i had to turn the dec air thing off!!

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Grim

I thought that was cos your BOV was mounted and sealed badly and was leaking air. plus i don't think we tried very hard to tune the dec-air feature....

nope i had my stock bov blocked and the blitz recoed with new springs.

The best thing i did was pissing the blitz bov off and going back to the stock bov!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...