Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this noise you've mentioned, is it meant to be loud and obvious or quite quiet??

also, when a bearing is spun, does the car start to lose compression and hunt on idle like when the AAC valve is blocked?

you can get a stethoscope and put it to your block then put it to the head and see where its louder.

alternatively, get under the car and get someone to hit the accelerator and see if you can hear it more under the car, or from the top. bottom = bearings, head = lifters.

worn lifters will make almost the same kind of rattle but isnt something that will need attending to for a while.

bearings are pretty loud/noticeable, lifters are quieter. both increase as you rev.

Use a long flathead screwdriver touching various parts of the engine and holding your ear to it, should help you narrow down where the noise is coming from (basically a backyard stethescope :))

whoa that is pretty loud. if i'm not mistaken, ur referring to the thing that sounds like someone is tapping their fingers on a piece of sheet metal in some sort of tune?

edit:

i just went out to have a listen. it sounds like a fast consistent ticking sound (not very loud, my phone couldn't capture the sound) and it doesn't really sound like it's coming from the rear bottom of the engine either. it sounds like it's coming more from this part of the engine:

4ms0i9g.jpg

when i rev it up and take my foot off the accel, the ticking stops and restarts on idle.

Edited by dan.1337

RB20s are usually not too bad with bearings, SR20s are the true bottom end bearing destroyers. I've destoyed a couple of them. I had a mate who thrashed his R32 for years (drove it like it was stolen, literally) and never had a problem, then swapped it for a clean SR20 silvia and blew the engine within a month because he revved it like an RB20. Not many engines can rev as well as an RB20!

Best thing to do is rip off the sump pan yourself, put a magnet in there and see if any shavings come out, if they do, the engine is finished because the crank is scored (bottom end bearings aren't metal). Then put the sump back on and fill with cheap crap oil and thrash it until it blows (fun). Then source a clean stock replacement, all up shouldn't cost more than $1800 including labor. If you don't get any metal shavings in the sump, then you can decide on whether you want to pay big bucks and replace the bearings etc. or change the oil and hope for the best.

My friend had a knocking noise coming from his RB25, which we thought was the bottom end bearings but he changed the oil a couple times and its gone away and hasn't had a problem since.

The point I make is: change your oil and oil filter regularly and you shouldn't have a problem. I have not yet blown an RB20 and I drive them very hard so don't blame the engine, blame the poor servicing history.

If i didnt know better id say there was a very musical creature living in your engine playing drums :)

whoa that is pretty loud. if i'm not mistaken, ur referring to the thing that sounds like someone is tapping their fingers on a piece of sheet metal in some sort of tune?

edit:

i just went out to have a listen. it sounds like a fast consistent ticking sound (not very loud, my phone couldn't capture the sound) and it doesn't really sound like it's coming from the rear bottom of the engine either. it sounds like it's coming more from this part of the engine:

4ms0i9g.jpg

when i rev it up and take my foot off the accel, the ticking stops and restarts on idle.

That would be the injectors squirting away

My ones used to do it

and then i put GTR ones in and it got even louder

Edited by r32woohoo
its nothing to worry about mate,

as dan said, its just the usual RB noisy injectors.

thanks for all the help guys!

hopefully my mechanic has made an error in judgement. i have aftermarket Denso 550cc injectors in there too.

will attempt to clean the AAC valve on the weekend to stop the hunt on idle :whistling:

thanks for all the help guys!

hopefully my mechanic has made an error in judgement. i have aftermarket Denso 550cc injectors in there too.

will attempt to clean the AAC valve on the weekend to stop the hunt on idle :whistling:

sorry mate, i edited my post because i actually watched the vid. sorry.

sorry mate, i edited my post because i actually watched the vid. sorry.

ah that's not my car...that's shanef's.

mine is the ticking description coming from the yellow circle. i dunno how to upload sound.

oh!!

well then you're a lucky man, i wasnt paying attention. i thought it was yours.

then its noisy injectors mate.

also as a general tip, overfill your oil by around 500ml. T04GTR was running 300ish kw on the standard bottom end and thats all he does. no spun bearings for him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...