Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 8 months later...

Just bumping this thread as my R34 seems to be doing this. I'll drive along and literally watch the gauge drop to empty and the fuel light come on. Then I'll stop for a while and it'll go back to where it should be. It'll just randomly drop and climb. It seems to reset itself to the right point when you turn the car off and on. What could be causing that?

Sounds like a wiring issue, from tank to gauge. Or maybe some contaminants on the resistance slider?

Had any work done near the tank? Pump etc?

Had any wiring done, stereo?

The only thing I've changed in the past week is the battery. The car has a voltage stabiliser that the previous owner added, could a dodgy earth be causing it? It does sound like wiring to me. It does have a stereo (which is useless in Australia and I'm not using), I don't think there's been any work around the fuel tank. I've only had the car a week (imported and went through compliance.)

Did they change the filler neck and dropped something in there while doing it?? Did they drill child restraints into the parcel shelf? clip a wire?

Try and find out whats been done to your car recently.

Edited by GeeTR
my fuel gauge has been acting werid lately its been going up and down and never seems to be stable.when i press on to accerlarate the fuel gauge drops then when im stopped in traffic it slowly comes back up. does anyone know what it could be?

You may find that the fuel guage float has parted company with its mounting. This happened in my R33 GTS-t and was easily fixed.

Did they change the filler neck and dropped something in there while doing it?? Did they drill child restraints into the parcel shelf? clip a wire?

Try and find out whats been done to your car recently.

They don't put a restrictor in the fuel tank any more. They mounted child restraints but that wouldn't have done anything.

Paul SM - yeah, you're probably right. Today it was fine, just has it's moment. When I cbf I'll get it fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...