Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a question that is very vague to answer, and it also a question that doesnt really matter. According to some stuff that ive read, the power at the wheels is 80 - 85% what it is at the engine. Still this is just an estimate, and like I said, who really cares ...

Oh, in case you dont know the kw - bhp conversion .. its x 1.341 ... so if you have 245 kW at the wheels, you have about 328 rwhp. Not that that really matters either .. its just a measurement and i rekon ppl often quote it just cause its a bigger number and sounds better ... but not always.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18093-horsepower/#findComment-377916
Share on other sites

There is no definitive equation for determining flywheel horsepower from rear-wheel horsepower.

InExtremis you said that you believed it was 80-85%, well i heard it was between 67-75% (2/3 and 3/4), so that proves that it depends on multiple variables. All wheel drives also lose much more power through drivetrain loss. Ill outline a few variables that i know of but someone with dyno experience can elaborate:

* wheel/tyre size

* how well the car puts its power down

* weight distribution

In the latest MOTOR mag they had a Holden v Ford comparison and dynoed all 7 cars. Some interesting results:

* FPV GT = 290Kw@fly but made 225Kw@wheels

* HSV GTS = 300kw but made 222Kw@wheels

* Holden Caprice = 245Kw@fly but made only 158Kw@wheels

* Commodore SS = 235Kw@fly but made 182Kw@wheels

* Commodore SV8 = 235Kw@fly but made 178Kw@wheels

As you can see descrepancies are apparent in these examples. One phenomenon did occur to me the cars that performed best had more weight over the rear axles...

Hope this helps...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18093-horsepower/#findComment-378476
Share on other sites

For dyno-testing yes more more weight in the back will give better results (generally speaking) for RWD cars. Thats why sometime you see guys sitting in or on the boot of cars being dynoed!!!!

As for on the road, there is a fine line between good power down and bogging, and more finely adding extra weight to aid power down and the detriment of having a heavier car (the heavier the car the worse power to weight ratio).

Think of a leaf sprung suspension equiped ute with big horsepower. There's 3/5ths of stuff all weight in the back therefore there is going to be a difficulty in putting the power to the ground because the tyres wont be sitting as heavily on the road...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18093-horsepower/#findComment-378713
Share on other sites

only bad thing with this info is.... you are assuming that they are actually the quoted figure @ fly. Figures could well be totally correct, and what im saying would have no relevance.. but it may not be the case .

Originally posted by HSVKLR

In the latest MOTOR mag they had a Holden v Ford comparison and dynoed all 7 cars. Some interesting results:

* FPV GT = 290Kw@fly but made 225Kw@wheels

* HSV GTS = 300kw     but made 222Kw@wheels

* Holden Caprice = 245Kw@fly but made only 158Kw@wheels

* Commodore SS = 235Kw@fly but made 182Kw@wheels

* Commodore SV8 = 235Kw@fly but made 178Kw@wheels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18093-horsepower/#findComment-379160
Share on other sites

Roughly the number of horsepower at the rear wheels is the same number of kW's at the flywheel.

so in butthead's case 245rwkw = 327rwhp

therefore if the car has 327rwhp, the engine produces 327kW (436hp) at the flywheel (roughly)

i dont think this would apply to all cars but seems to be pretty close on rwd skylines.

hope that helps....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18093-horsepower/#findComment-379697
Share on other sites

Haha no worries InExtremis - it's interesting that they did an article with dyno results of all our "favourite" australian cars.

Just out of interest the XR6T which won the comparison for best all round ability made 185Kw@wheels... not bad eh?!! They even made mention of the "R32 Skyline" in the article - saying not since then has a 6cyl decimated the opposition in such a way....

Btw RB25 i like your formula in working it out - very interesting but if you apply it a stock R32 GTSt see what happens:

Roughly 110kw@wheels=147.4hp@wheels

therefore 147kw@flywheel (158/162kw stock)

Almost but not quite....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18093-horsepower/#findComment-379853
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...