Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Only 3 things needed for the car to start, fuel, air and spark so it's one of those.

Air is pretty straightforward and I would even say difficult to have something wrong going on there. But maybe a faulty air flow meter or loose wiring loom. Try unplugging the AFM wire and plugging back in again in case the contacts have oxidized a bit.

Fuel can usually be figured out quickly by listening for the fuel pump prime when you switch the ignition on before cranking over. If no fuel pump noise, then check the fuel pump/relay etc.

Spark is a bit more difficult to test on Skylines (very easy on old cars with normal leads), but there are plenty of forum threads on how to do it.

Most likely it's the battery though especially after 2 months. It can have enough charge to turn the engine over at seemingly normal speeds but not have enough juice for the spark, so just listening for slow cranking does not always work when diagnosing the battery. Try jump starting it or charging the battery for a few hours and try again. If the battery's stuffed though, charging won't help.

Lead acid batteries die fairly quickly when they are sitting around not being drained or charged, that's why many motorcycle batteries have no fluid in them when you buy them, and you fill it up after you buy it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181446-r32-wont-start/#findComment-3296278
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...