Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr R33 - Oil Temp Half Way Between 70 And 150

jeff

By jeff,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

jeff Proficient

jeff

Posted
Posted

just noticed my oil temp is around the half way mark for the past couple of days as per the centre gauge

wed night i noticed the radiator collant was boiling too? i checked the coolant level today and radiator had to be filled a little to top it up but the reserve was ok

checked engine oil level this morning and thats fine

engine temp is sitting half way as per normal

oil temp doesnt really go past 1/2 way

what could be causing this?

cheers

jeff

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted
just noticed my oil temp is around the half way mark for the past couple of days as per the centre gauge

engine temp is sitting half way as per normal

oil temp doesnt really go past 1/2 way

what could be causing this?

Sounds normal to me.

dilmah Community Regular

dilmah

Posted
Posted

I'm not so sure about that.

My GTR and many of the other ones I test drove before buying my one doesn't get anywhere near half way on the oil temperature gauge under normal driving conditions.

Around town, mine is around 80 degrees or so. Hard to tell where that is exactly, but the gauge is still hovering over the numbers "70"... so basically about 1/6th of the way up the gauge from the bottom.

Driving on the highway at 110, it tends to go up to 90 degrees or so. still below halfway. Apparently (yet to see this), but on track use, it should get around half way up the gauge or perhaps more (??). When was the last time you changed your oil, oil filter and stuff?

What about oil pressure? Should never go below 2 or above 6-7 in my experience...

Also, how did you know your coolant was boiling?

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

It can depend on many things. How hot it is outside, how hard your driving, if you have an oil cooler etc...

Daily driving i get around 80-90... on hot hot days even 95-100...

Around the track i've had it up to 130..... which is where i start to ease off.....

jeff Proficient

jeff

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

no oil cooler and the half way mark of oil temp is just from normal driving (no boost) after about 40mins worth of driving...

oil change (motul chrono 10w40) about 1500klms ago.

as for the boiling coolant, you can actually hear it before it starts flowing through the reserve and leaks out eventually!

got it booked it at Advan on monday to try and figure it out.....hoping its thermostat or blocked radiator or something simple.....doing a cylinder leak test so we'll see what that brings up :?

could it be a stuffed cat converter?

would dying turbos cause this?

Edited by jeff
Cooper Proficient

Cooper

Posted
Posted

Ive had boiling coolant before in my GTR when i first got it and the cause was a radiator that was block to about 80%, i got a new 2 core radiator and new thermostat and it solved it straight away. My oil temp sits at about 80 and 90 odd when driving for a longer period of time.

  • 1 month later...
jeff Proficient

jeff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

2 weeks pass since the visit at Advan

the radiator starts leaking....so I baby the thing to the workshop (not the same workshop as mentioned above, never again!)

turns out the radiator is blocked (apart from the obvious leak that just started)

ended up buying a new radiator from Justjap, change thermostat (old one was OK), changed clutch fan just because and i couldnt get a refund anyways (old one was also in great condition)

Now, my water temp is always below 1/2 way, oil temp just gets above the 70 mark on the gauge even with a bit of spirited driving and aircon on!!!!

Moral of the story, dont think a well known tuner can solve all of your problem! Had a feeling that the radiator was stuffed but decided to listen to the mechanics!

But what can you do, it is a GTR and I'd rather spend a few $ for someone in the know to figure things out rather than spending thousands to fix the engine!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...