Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I left my lights on last night and this morning my battery was completly flat.. When trying to jump start it the car just clicks like crazy? any ideas how i can get it purring again?

Is there some special way to charging a skylines battery? ><

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182455-r33-series-2-flat-battery/
Share on other sites

Did you try and jump start it using the terminals in the engine bay? or straight onto the battery in the boot?

I've jumped mine straight off the battery in the boot before I found out what the terminals in the engine bay were. Worked alright.

That clicking sound might be your starter motor. Are you jump starting off another car or a standalone battery?

Positive on positive. Negative on negative.

Hahaha.

I am connecting to the battery in the boot? is that where i should be connecting?

I was using my neighbours 83 ford laser to jump start ha-ha :P

Car was completely dead when i came out.. put jump leads on and i got dash lights back but when i tryed to turn it over it was clicking like a machine gun ;)

Hahaha.

I am connecting to the battery in the boot? is that where i should be connecting?

I was using my neighbours 83 ford laser to jump start ha-ha :P

Car was completely dead when i came out.. put jump leads on and i got dash lights back but when i tryed to turn it over it was clicking like a machine gun ;)

shouldn't matter where jumping from, but the points in the engine bay near the fuse box are easy to access. Make sure you have good size cables and a good connection on the clamps (this makes a massive difference). Failing that, the ford laser battery is probably crap and does not have enough cranking amps for the skyline. Call your local RACQ (not sure wat its called in WA) or find a bigger car/battery and try try again.

Make sure the laser has its engine running as well. You can try leaving the two batteries connected for a few mintues, the two batteries will try to equalize their level of charge, and the bigger skyline battery may have enough umph to crank but its not recommend to leave them connected longer than required.

The clicking sound is the starter motor using more amps than the battery can output, it starts to throw the solenoid out and turn the motor then it overloads the battery and turns off do to lack of voltage (voltage drops when you crank).

Edited by 33driver

If you pop the bonnet, there's a black box on left side of the engine bay with jap writing all over it. It has a diagram of how to jump start from that box. You've got to pop the lid off to get to the terminals.

Try jumping from that one.

Edited by KeyMaker
shouldn't matter where jumping from, but the points in the engine bay near the fuse box are easy to access. Make sure you have good size cables and a good connection on the clamps (this makes a massive difference). Failing that, the ford laser battery is probably crap and does not have enough cranking amps for the skyline. Call RACQ or find a bigger car/battery and try try again.

I was thinking the ford laser battery might be shot too, but it shouldn't matter if the laser is running while he's jump starting. The volts/amps should be boosted by the alternator. Revving the laser while jump starting can help with this.

Edited by KeyMaker

Okay cheers guys, i thought there might have been something more to it.. like since 100 cars ive jumped start first time i thought cause its an import and the battery is in the boot there might have been a different way of starting it.. so yeah i got a battery charger ill take the battery out tonight and charge it over night and hopefully that should fix it ;)

I was thinking the ford laser battery might be shot too, but it shouldn't matter if the laser is running while he's jump starting. The volts/amps should be boosted by the alternator. Revving the laser while jump starting can help with this.

While the alternator will help, I suspect a ford laser may have an alternator of like 80amps max, starter motors can draw like 400+ amps for the split second they crank, if the skyline's bat is dead flat and the ford's isn't in great condition the voltage will drop too quickly across the connection for the skyline to start. but meh getting techincal now - chuck the charger on there and it should be fine

While the alternator will help, I suspect a ford laser may have an alternator of like 80amps max, starter motors can draw like 400+ amps for the split second they crank, if the skyline's bat is dead flat and the ford's isn't in great condition the voltage will drop too quickly across the connection for the skyline to start. but meh getting techincal now - chuck the charger on there and it should be fine

Hahaha too true. I stand corrected ;)

+1 for the charger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...