Jump to content
SAU Community

safc or ebc?

shannon

By shannon,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

shannon Enthusiast

shannon

Posted
Posted

hey all,

wanting more response / power from the 33 and cant decide what would be a better option.

im pretty much leaning toward a ebc ... but would like a few ideas from others.

its pretty much standard apart from exhaust and panel filter , just getting to used to the power.

also have a t04 here i want to use, but dont have the funds to get that installed.

cheers

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18248-safc-or-ebc/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

yes, EBC first.. you will be able to wind the boost up a bit and get a fair bit more power before the stock ECU settings will tend to lean out.

Other option is a cheaper bleed valve ($100 ?) to set your boost a bit higher and then S-AFC to tune up for more power. You could probably get to around 150-160rwkw then before you needed to get a FMIC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18248-safc-or-ebc/#findComment-380853
Share on other sites
shannon Enthusiast

shannon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so looks like the bleed valve and safc might be the way to go for now :P

any recomendations on which bleed to go for? from what i can see the 2 decent ones are the gfb and the TurboXS HPBC . also if i am to get one of these and install it, do i then need to buy a boost gauge so i can see what its actauuly boosting to.

if so, wouldnt it be cheaper / roughly the same to get an ebc ?

sorry, im dumb!

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18248-safc-or-ebc/#findComment-381093
Share on other sites
skylineakt Rising Star

skylineakt

Posted
Posted

Hey Shannon

I had the same dilema as you before, whether to purchase a bleed valve or an elect boost controller.

There is heaps of advantages of the ebc over a bleed valve, but due do to money reason I had to settle for the Turbosmart single stage, it allows me to flick from standard boost to high boost from inside the car. The unit cost me about $200 and i have been told you do need an accurate boost gauge when installing one of these. So rougly eveything came to $400 not including installation.

Now when boost is set on high, it comes on more quicker and it sounds MAD!!

The only worry i have with the bleed valve is that I'm scare it will overboost. So now days when i'm pushing it, i tend to be more focused on the boost gauge than on the road haha. I guess that's one of the main disadvantages of a bleed valve compare to a ebc. Alot of them have some sort of safety function for boost spike or overboosting.

I also intalled a A/F ratio meter to check for leaning out. And with boost set at 11psi there seem to be no problem. Still running rich actually. So my next step will be either the SAF-C2 or a piggy back comp.

There are some cheap second ebc on ebay sometime. That might be an option. The cheapest ebc I have seen is properly the profec-B and now GReddy just realease a new model too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18248-safc-or-ebc/#findComment-381237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...