Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

I have a Turbosmart Type 3 supersonic BOV i bought last week with th egenuine turbosmart mount for an R33, but am going to get rid of it to allow for the new Greddy one on its way from japan. BOV alone i paid $398 for it and $99 for the mount. So i'd say $300 is fair for both, being it has been on my car for 6 days lol. It sounds awesome i must add, can be very loud depending on boost levels and is so easy to adjust via the turn of a wrist. Would prefer to sell to melbournians if possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18410-exp-1-week-old-turbosmart-type-3-bov/
Share on other sites

Yeah twist the top on it by hand and its quietened... twist it other way and its loud... easy and takes about 2 seconds, other BOV's require an alen key and small spanner to adjust spring tension, thats the beuty of this BOV and all turbosmart BOV's.

Um you can put it at either as it will work the same at both. Having it nearer the throttle body will make it respond a bit quicker on back off only because of its near ness to the shut off point. I prefer tho to run it a little further away on teh cooler piping like you had made, gives a better sound i reckon. Currently i have mine on the stock mount only because i bought the exspensive turbosmart mount for it to make for a neat fitment but it really doesn't matter.

and when screwing it right in is it even noticeable... or is it more like the harder scrwed in it is the more revs it needs to get the big sound ? and how loud is the loudest sound.. i want a crazy noise but i want to be able to control it so cops cant hear it if i go easy on the throttle ya know what i mean ?

Well basically if your running anything more than stock boost and you have it set about half way it is freaken loud ha ha to put it bluntly... and basically the more you turn it in it will still go off however just doesn't make no where near the noise and has more of a crazy flutter to it. Awesome BOV i have it now about 5 twists out which is fairly soft and it is loud but not really loud, it has more of the intercooler flutter which i like more anyway, but you can screw it right out to say 12 twists and it is soft as and will make good noise. Its a great bov, probably the best i have come across by far.

Nuthing man i ordered it few weeks ago on a mates credit card and forgot about it now i'm stuck with payin for it :P i told him to order it for me and he did but i cbf waiting for it to get here so i bought another one thinking i could tell him the next day to forget about it but he had already done it, so now i gotta get rid of this one.

I live in croydon dude, near ringwood if ya familiar with the area. Um i am free tomorrow all day but in the afternoon i gotta go pick up my new turbo ;) But as for price i rally can't go any cheaper dude, as its $500 bucks worth of BOV and mount i'm selling for $300 :P its a week old not to mention, have boxes and all for it so. I'd really like to get a little bit back cos i owe $400 for this other bloddy thing :) Tell ya what if this GReddy one aint good i'm gunna be spewin hardcore lol.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...