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hey man,

Lights are the same, as long as you have bugeye with GTR grille connectors or the N1 lights

as for the bonnet catch, you can either use a GTR one like above, or get the GTS-t one, move it to the back of the support :D so drill holes behind hte exist holes and move it about 1-2cm furthur back :P did that when I got my GTR fibreglass bonnet, works very well :)

OK thanks!! Seems pretty easy!

Whats a Bugeye? lol

If i have standard R32 Gts-t lights what would I need to buy to make the bonnet work? :rofl:

You can fit a GTR bonnet with any headlight. The only difference would be that some don't have the brackets to hold the grille on. As long as you modify/change your bonnet latch, a GTR bonnet will fit.

i got a genuine GTR Bonnet and Grill painted in white, none of this fibreglass, full alluminium with the mat aswell still on the bonnet

and a genuine grill, painted white n in original plastic

offer the right price n i mite let em go

i got a genuine GTR Bonnet and Grill painted in white, none of this fibreglass, full alluminium with the mat aswell still on the bonnet

and a genuine grill, painted white n in original plastic

offer the right price n i mite let em go

Where are you located mate?

GTR bonnet is SOOO much lighter than gtst lol, when i felt one i was like "WTF"

Haha yeah, i went to open the hood on a mates R34 GT and for a bit I thought the lock was stuffed, but no it really is that heavy.

hey man

i got your PM,

I'll get a pic up tonight when i get home

Basically here's a rundown:

remove current latch

you'll see the two bolt holes, get a drill say a 10mm drill piece, drill straight through the bolt holes to the back of the reinforcement bar, then you move the latch about 1" towards the engine and bolt it to the new holes

you use the bolts inside the engine bay in exactly the opposite way of when you have the latch in it's normal position,

I'll post up the technique and what it looks like tonight

Alright :P here goes, sorry about the crappy pics, must bumper, ligths and other things are off at the moment, because i'm stripping it fora respray

new017.jpg

Here are the existing bolt holes, with bolts removed, I drilled through to the rear of these

new018.jpg

These are how the bolts sit now, backwards to where they were, with the radiator still fitting in nicely :rofl:

new019.jpg

This shows my radiator, if fits with the stadnard one, but that one is a 240sx(180sx) radiator from the states, 55mm thick >_< triple core, best of all if only cost me $220NZD :( plus a $10 top pipe from a commonwhore from stupidcheap auto, very cheap and good upgrade, fully recommend it

do a search for aluminum 240sx radiator on ebay :( and get one

All i had to do was tap a hole for the water temp sender and the thing never even gets over 1/2 way even without hte fan running sitting at idle for 30 minutes :)

Bottom pipe lines up perfectly, goes into existing radiator holes

new020.jpg

what it looks like now, see how the bolts are at the back and the catch is about 1"(2.5cm furthur back)

new021.jpg

Testing the latch

new022.jpg

Clicks closed :) perfect

new023.jpg

Test subject - R32 GTR Fibreglass replica bonnet with intake vent and radiator vent

new024.jpg

ur a legend mate, ima do this 2moz but i got it holdin down at the moment with proper bonnet pins looks tough as:)

How close does it sit to the top of the standard radiator??

Edited by SLY-dN
  • 1 month later...

sorry for the late reply :S

sits exactly the same as the standard bonnet :P no lower or higher, changing the bolts to the other side doesn't hit the radiator eitehr :D perfectly cheap mod

also if you need a cheap 50mm core radiator, go like the one above, same height, mounting points as the R32, just different top pipe location

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