Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Spike Problems

Simmo1985

By Simmo1985,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've just finished installing the turbotech boost controller and an Autometer boost gauge.

Even on the lowest setting (boost controller screw loosened almost completely) I'm hitting around 14psi or so. 2nd gear usually comes to around 10-12, but third and fourth go all the way up to 14psi, not sure if it would go any higher as I stop accelerating when I see that. I've tried tightening the screw (can't loosen it any further) and I get the same results.

For some reason my boost gauge isn't showing any boost in 1st gear? I probably just wasn't gunning it in 1st though.

What could the problem be?

I've installed the turbotech bc as per instructions in the DIY section of this site. Fairly sure the autometer gauge is accurate and installed correctly. Seems to be consistent with the dash gauge (i.e. the needle of both boost gauges hit 0 at the same time).

EDIT - Mods include JJ Cooling Pro type 1 FMIC, full 3" exhaust with hi-flow cat.

Edited by Simmo1985
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185130-boost-spike-problems/
Share on other sites
Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not sure if this means anything to anyone, but before I installed the boost controller I took the car for a spin (just installed the boost gauge) and it seemed to hit low-boost mode (standard boost solenoid was still connected) fine, went to 5psi on the gauge however boost seemed to drop off noticeably in the higher revs.

I've got a feeling the problem is lying with the exhaust. It's a JJR split dump pipe.

ZENNON Grand Master

ZENNON

Posted
Posted

what boost do you get if you run a line from the intercooler pipe to the actuator (will be the minimum boost that your car will make) check that the wastegate isnt fouling on the pipe and try taking off the heat shield too or modify it (it was in the way on mine) I had to die grind my turbo wastegate to get the boost down after the exhaust went on

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Here is a pic of my setup. Is this right? If not what should I change?

I'm not too sure where that cord runs off to the left.. sorta disappears in near my radiator and seems to run to the bottom left hand side of the car.

The intercooler is a Cooling Pro type 1 from Just Jap. I've heard that these kits don't have a nipple or something or other.. Is this apart of my problem?

post-39834-1189913421_thumb.jpg

Edited by Simmo1985
tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
Posted

check the other post where you posted about your problem, i replied there but basically bypass your charcoal canister (which is probably where the lines are leading under the bottom left of your car) and see what that does

i had the EXACT same problem as you but as soon as i tried that, it was all good

btw by law you must run a charcoal canister

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Before boost controller it was running just the standard boost, was running it pretty much normally.. However at higher revs boost seemed to drop off, not sure if this is normal as I only took the car for a quick drive after installing the gauge before moving onto boost controller install.

SevenAngryPenguins Proficient

SevenAngryPenguins

Posted
Posted (edited)

the pressure feed is the hose that comes off the side of the manifold and goes to your 'T' join. I would first connect that straight onto the actuator take car for a spin and check the boost level to ensure you have a good pressure feed (i assume you have a boost gauge) and that its not running a high boost level to start with

charcoal canister

Definition: A storage device in the evaporative emissions control system. It is a small cylindrical or rectangular container that contains activated charcoal particles. The charcoal traps gasoline vapors from the fuel tank (and carburetor on older vehicles). Later, the vapors are purged and drawn into the engine when the vehicle is being driven.

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins
Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I disconnected the line that is likely running to the charcoal canister and connected only the pressure line to the boost controller. Car is now holding 7psi like an absolute champion. No boost spikes or drops.

What's my best move from here? Just run the car with the charcoal canister lines disconnected and blocked permanently?

I'm just relieved it's not my dump pipe that needs replacing!! Thanks for the advice so far guys, keep it coming :unsure::P;) ..

SevenAngryPenguins Proficient

SevenAngryPenguins

Posted
Posted

hey mate just looked at your picture and noticed that you used the old rubber hose (the one with the red line on it coming off the 'T' joiner) take it off and check that it doesn't have the restictor inside it if it does just push it out and take for another spin

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, status update.. I checked the red hose - it did have a restrictor in the line. Removed it and re-hooked everything back up with the charcoal canister line. For some reasons my car does not run as well with this connected, it was hunting at idle and had hesitation when I was revving the engine in neutral.

Took it for a drive, second gear hit about 7psi stable.. third gear however was again going over 12psi.. must have something to do with the length of the hose or something.. maybe when they installed the FMIC they had to move the charcoal canister to somewhere else? Maybe it is supposed to sit a lot closer? My friends 180sx has that canister thing sitting on the front right side of the engine bay, just to the side of the radiator.

I guess I'll just disconnect the charcoal canister lines for now and block them off. Can anyone confirm this is safe to do?

SevenAngryPenguins Proficient

SevenAngryPenguins

Posted
Posted

as drifter said just 't' of the bov line or get a nipple put onto your intercooler pipe (which will make for nice short piping too) I wouldnt be messing with the canister if you dont have too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...