Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WD40 around the bolt... leave it for a minute, some hopefully will seep in.

Have you people heard of socket sets?? sheech.. that will be the easiest way to get it off.. even if the nut is stripped a fair amount, a socket will get it off most likely

May be better on a warmer day with the engine warm.. sump will expand slightly, making it easier to get out.

predator,

i thought u would want to do it when it was cold, so the bolt shrinks. not expands.

also i will try these methods of "pulling" the bolt off, however apparently (according to my dogdy mechanic) there is a plate behind the hole of the sump (for extra strength) and the plate might be spinning along with the plug and not just the plug itself. if that makes sense? That is why he is charging me 280 to get it fixed. cause he reckons he needs to take the sump off and re-weld these points for strength. does this make sense anyone?

ah a different problem to what I had, I couldn't get the bolt to turn, but your sump plug keeps turning... is that right?

also I found the bolt was an inbetween size, couldn't find a socket that fitted tightly, and by the look of it others had the same problem. but I might put a crush washer(non flat washer to prevent overtightening) on it again as they are only about $2.50 from nissan.

also I found the bolt was an inbetween size, couldn't find a socket that fitted tightly, and by the look of it others had the same problem

Well unless u are running some sort of weird aftermarket sump plug, its just standard! you're not using an imperial socket are you??

I believe its 12mm or 14mm but that is just from memory. There is nothing weird about it.

Try a longer spanner or extender to increase leverage..

yeah pretty much. 1stly the sump plug wouldn't loosen, then with my mates big biceps, he ended up loosing it up. its loose but not enought to take it off. Furthermore u cant tighten back up either. it just keeps on spinning. u can just fit a small screwdriver head between the head of the bolt and the sump.

any other suggestions?

The sump plug screws into a captive nut spot welded to the sump. If the plug turns both ways and does not come on or off, the nut or spot weld have broken or is stripped.Sorry sump off to fix if the nut is loose or you might be able to drill out and tap oversize if the nut is stripped.Get the plug out any way you can ( I have used a large screwdriver under the head of the plug while turning before) and then assess damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...