Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mm, so i have this weird missfire-like problem in my GTR

The sound isn't really coming from the engine (my old gts-t used to missfire and you could hear it at the engine, totally different sound and it would dramatically affect engine behaviour, not just slow the revving down a bit) it sounds more like it's coming through the turbo, like a surging sucking sound, except more like a sprinkler like it's sucking and cutting off reallly fast.

It only happens at high revs in 2nd or 3rd gear, and i have changed gap on the gtr a few times, and tried 1 and .8 regaps and it still happens.

But yeh, it doesn't seem like a missfire (compared to other missfires, where they've made the engine all jittery and sounded like revs cutting), and changing gaps and plugs, and checking coils for cracks made no difference

So yeh, any suggestions?

atm im just thinking i should go get some splitfires and throw em in coz they gonna need to be replaced eventually anyway

Edited by GTAAAH

are you talking about the gtr or the gtst? either way doesnt make any difference just interested cause you started on the gtr and finished on the gtst lol.

Regapping to .8 is still quite big, i would maybe drop it down a bit more. A mates 200sx had his gapped at .7 and it had a "fluffy" missfire across the rev range, like it was blowing the spark out, dropped the gap down to .5 and its been sweet and he doesnt have any problems at idle at the gap either.

What computer you running? im guessing you have minimum of safc to run the z32

OH yeh asking about the GTR, i kept confusing myself but yeh, got the same probs on both of them so was assuming it had to be the same thing causing it coz it sounded and seemed exactly the same

:edited out the gtst bit, was confusing as hell lol:

the gtr is totally standard, standard boost etc

Also the gapping is just a fix for screwed packs anyway isn't it really?

Edited by GTAAAH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...