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Just Hooked Up The S-afcii On A S2 R33 Gts-t And The Car Runs Like A Dog With Three Legs....


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I ran the Initial setup including the knock sensor setup before hooking up the knock sensor signal wire (purple) as I don't know which Knock signal pin to use from the ECU, the ECU has Pin 23 (Cyl 1-3) and Pin 24 (Cyl 4-6).

The manual does not have which Pin on my ECU to hook up the knock sensor. And I cant seem to set the knock sensor as the car does not run without stalling after around 3500 RPM

Nor does it say what type of AFM I have, I've set the AFM type to the (Hot-Wire type), 1 in and 1 out as part of the Initial setup.

I have set the following

Sensor Type Hot-Wire type 1 in and 1 out

6cyl with Throttle sensor type Arrow facing up-right

All sensors working on SensCheck bar the KnK had no reading but would have expected that as have not hooked up the purple wire yet? Tried setting the knocking signal correction, but carwon't run properly to do it?

Can any one tell me what settings they use for an R33 GTS-T.

I have the following engine mods:

Century 20 Aftermarket ECU

Bee*R Rev Limiter

FMIC

HKS Pod

Full 3" Exhaust

BOV

Might have to pull it all out tomorrow as the wife needs the car for Work Monday....!

post-17633-1191659277_thumb.jpg

Check the wiring with pic attached, probably something you've screwed up. Also if the safc's have an initialise feature, start it over again and pay attention to what the apexi guide says.

Thanks BAMR33 that was the ECU digram I used.

One question I could not answer from the Apexi Instruction Manual Pg45 was (For sensor numbers, refer to the Wiring Diagram by model on the seperate sheet) I have scoured the Wiring digram by model document I have and it has nothing about sensor numbers for the Nissan's it does have the sensor type for the Subaru's.... So I guessed it was and set it to a (HW) Hot-Wire type AFM sensor.

if your car is running like poo since youve installed the safc you have either

a) cut the afm signal to the ecu (rev should cut at 2500rpm)

b) have munged the initial settings on the safc

c) broken the airflow meter

check the obvious, factory reset the safc, and check the wiring

also remap & safc may not be a good idea

if your car is running like poo since youve installed the safc you have either

a) cut the afm signal to the ecu (rev should cut at 2500rpm)

b) have munged the initial settings on the safc

c) broken the airflow meter

check the obvious, factory reset the safc, and check the wiring

also remap & safc may not be a good idea

SWEEET I'M STOKED......Thanks guys I'll take the "I'm an idiot and can't wire it properly" medal......

I just rewired it and it's running sweet, the reason I wired it incorectly was the wiring loom was pulling so tight on the ECU plug assy (from a previous butcher removing an alarm system before importing to Aus) that a few of the wires had jumped over into the next segment, so when I was counting along it was wrong on the signal wires...

I still havn't hooked up the (purple) knock sensor wire as it's getting a bit late to be revving the car over 3500-RPM tonight, so tomorrow will be a good day to finish the basic install/setup, plus a service while I'm at it, might aswell give it a wash too seen as the Wife never does....

SWEEET I'M STOKED......Thanks guys I'll take the "I'm an idiot and can't wire it properly" medal......

I just rewired it and it's running sweet, the reason I wired it incorectly was the wiring loom was pulling so tight on the ECU plug assy (from a previous butcher removing an alarm system before importing to Aus) that a few of the wires had jumped over into the next segment, so when I was counting along it was wrong on the signal wires...

I still havn't hooked up the (purple) knock sensor wire as it's getting a bit late to be revving the car over 3500-RPM tonight, so tomorrow will be a good day to finish the basic install/setup, plus a service while I'm at it, might aswell give it a wash too seen as the Wife never does....

Ah well I spoke to soon, time to pull it out I think, the car does't drive too well with it in place seems to want to just die when driving at around 3000-4000rpm, idles ok, so a bit perplexing, have also set the knock now and wired that up.

Anyone else running one of these with similar setup as mine to compare settings?

Check to see that the airflow meter type is correct. IIRC there is one with an arrow pointing diagonally upwards, one pointing sideways, and one pointing diagonally downwards?

Try each setting just to make sure you have the right one.

Had an SAFCII on my starlet and when in the wrong setting the car ran like shit :P

check to make sure your sensor type is HW-4 and 1 in 1 out. and car select is 6 and the arrow pointing up. any one of these wrong and you car wont run properly. alse did you check that the afm in wire and out wire hooked up the right way? and the knock splice in wire isn't used in the safcII to run anything, just a gauge that you can display.

check to make sure your sensor type is HW-4 and 1 in 1 out. and car select is 6 and the arrow pointing up. any one of these wrong and you car wont run properly. alse did you check that the afm in wire and out wire hooked up the right way? and the knock splice in wire isn't used in the safcII to run anything, just a gauge that you can display.

Hey QWK32 yes checked and rechecked wiring in/out as somebody else mentioned in another thread on the SAFC II I even used the Apexi prefered earth (pin 26 AFM earth) as ground, and placed the Brown Earth wire closer to the ECU by over 2cm than the Black earth wire.

What do you mean by HW-4? I used Hot-Wire 1 in 1 out what is meant by 4?

I'm guessing the splicing is OK as it's still all spiced inplace I have only removed the Power from it so the SAFC II does not function, and the car runs ok, so the ECU is still getting the correct signals from my spliced signal connections. I'm leaning towards I've got something else special happening with my wiring i.e the Bee*R Rev limiter is causing problems or the unit is F*cked.

I will give it a couple of weeks then take a fresh look again to see if I've overlooked something, if not it's gone....

Hey lingeringsoul, you bet I waisted a good Saturday afternoon/evening on this little escapade, and if anybody asked me to do it for them I'd be asking for a carton.......of spirits.!

where you choose your sensor type as Hotwire, the next screen you have to enter a number. make sure Hotwire is chosen an in the next screen reads "04 04"

the 1 in and 1 out means that you have 1 signal in and 1 out. the 04 is just the sensor type for skylines except the GTR

without these settings right your car will run like shit?

Ok thanks mate I'll give that a try when I hook it all back up, maybe on Friday night.

From memory I set it to Sens No. In-01 Out-01 and Sens.Cal In-01 Out-01. I did try Sens No. 1 through to 3 with no change, no-where in the manual or online could I find where I should have the Sensor Number set at for a R33 GTS-T (it does however mention a Subaru WRX, Silvia S13 and 300ZX).....!

I'll buy some more bullet connectors on Thursday and hook it back up on Frid/Sat. and post results.

I am now looking into a USB consult cable and software for a more understandable readout of what is happening with the retuned Central20 ROM and as WogsRus mention'd (not in this thread) he is also using a Cental20 ROM with a SAFCII "The hunting on the car is easily fixed but you need consults to do it. I had the same issue, this is because the algorithim in the ECU for the ACC valve is different and needs to be reset to idle at 650 rpm. This is done through the consult software and takes about 5 minuts to do, very easy and solves any hunting issues"

pretty sure you can't write or change anything on the ecu with a consult cable. its just diagnostic port for checking gauges and error codes. i've got one and a few of the different programs that can be used on the ecu and none of them let me change anything.

in the manual with the wiring diagram if you find your car model and engine and keep going across the table it tells you the number and sensor type to use. HW-4. it even says in the manual if you follow the startup list which screen to change it on.

hay mate, i think your sensor is set wrong on the AFM.

OK the settings are

go to settings, sensor select, first window, hot wire, second window 04 and 04, third window 1 and 1

then in car sellect you go to 6 cylinders and arrow up.

Hey WogsRus, yep I will give this a try over the weekend, as have to wire it back in (power) all signal wires still spliced in ok.

Where did you see 4 in 4 out as the manuals I have printed and downloaded don't have this info anywhere?

Ok on the wiring manual on page 30, for the R33 it states sensor type, HW-4.

so in the ect setting you select Hot Wire as the sensor, and in the Sens.NO you put in 04 and 04 for both in and out then in the Sens.Cal yout put in 1 and 1

try that

Ok guys, just hooked it back up and all seems well just driving around the block, thanks to both QWK32 and WogsRus, the configuration needed to be set as the following default "check to make sure your sensor type is HW. Sensor No.4 in and out and Sensor Calibration 1 in 1 out. and car select is 6 and the arrow pointing up" - (this specific information Sensor No.) was unavailable on for me on pg.30 of my manual or downloaded PDF doco's, thanks again for the tip guys.

All that's left now is a proper Dyno tune.

When this is done in the next month I will Post the results.

  • 4 weeks later...

yeah HOTWIRE settings is:

4 in

4 out

and is on hi-throttle setting..

they dont use low throttle..i believe anyways

well i got a APexi NEO..and wen i try tune-in low-throttle it just give u a big X on the screen..lol

coz wen i watch the "correction" display/view it never on the low throttle air map settings..just hi-throttle..

plus straight after my first tune..

2 days later i couldnt rev past 2500rpm wen driving..

so after work took another look and just rev in neutral..

and the same problem..

thought it was my ATMO bov..

but i had that on its hardest setting..it was fluttering..

so i reset my afc(apexi NEO)

so i could drive..lol

and i could!!!

got i tuned the next day..

found out my o2 sensor just died on me..

dont no if it had anythin to do wit my afc..or yeah..

all good now...

so check ur wiring or evan some senors..

where you choose your sensor type as Hotwire, the next screen you have to enter a number. make sure Hotwire is chosen an in the next screen reads "04 04"

the 1 in and 1 out means that you have 1 signal in and 1 out. the 04 is just the sensor type for skylines except the GTR

without these settings right your car will run like shit?

for r33 skyline gts-t (rb25det) settings: 1.hotwire,

2. 1 in 1 out.

is that ok? or not?

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