Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have heard that if you put the apexi pfc on the rb25det its very hard to get it to tune over 450hp. Is this an actual problem or have I heard the wrong information. I am in the US and will be in need of complete engine management. This sounded like a good choice unless it will only tune to 450hp. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18822-apexi-power-fc-limits/
Share on other sites

I think you have heard the information form some oenwho doesnt know the power fc because there are a number of car on this board tha make in excess of 500 hp that use the power fc in fact the power fc is the ecu of choice cause all you have to do is plug it in no messy installs. btw that is assuming you have a suitable turbo injectors, fuel and afm.

cheers

I think the version you are refering to is the Djetro....

This is just means that the primary sensor of the computer is undertaken using the MAP sensor rather than AFM. Hence no resolution limits using AFMs! (allthough AFM are more accurate)

Heres a power restriction guide for you if your going to run a AFM setup:

1 X RB20/25 AFM = 370 bhp = 220 rwkw

1 X Z32 AFM = 420 bhp = 260 rwkw

2 X RB26 AFM's = 475 bhp = 300 rwkw

2 X Z32 AFM's = 700 bhp = 470 rwkw

1 X Q45 AFM = 480 bhp = 300 rwkw

2 X Q45 AFM's = 850 bhp = 550 rwkw

I havent seen anyone using a Djetro version of the FC so i cant say how it performs. And as for the diffrences regarding the computers i wouldnt have a clue! :P

Cheers,

Trev.

Hi guys, there is a lot of AFM paranoia floating around. People forget that the AFM is not the only method by which an ECU determines how much fuel to add. It also relies on throttle position and engine RPM for example. The standard ECU is programmed to add fuel and retard the ignition when it sees 5V, you don't have to program a Power FC that way.

When you build a fuel map in a Power FC you can table the air flow up to 5V via the AFM and then rely on RPM to table the fuel required once past 5V. RB engines are very linear (with RPM) in their fuel requirements at that level, so this is not a difficult or dangerous proposition.

Using an AFM with resolution available at higher airflows would make this process even more accurate, but there are plenty of engines around running perfectly fine without it.

As I do with everyone, I suggest you fit the PFC, have it fine tuned properly and then read off the AFM voltage from the Commander. We have seen 250 rwkw on the standard AFM at max voltage.

If and when you reach that level, then a Z32 (80 mm) or Q45(90mm) AFM is an easy upgrade for a few hundy.

Hope that helps

Hey People

Just after some help. I receantly got my power fc with h/c, boost control and exhaust cam gear installed on my 1993 GtsT.

It already had 3" exhaust with dual dump pipes, Apex GT intercooler and pod air filter. Since the new gear has been installed I have only recieved about an extra 22rwhp. Does this sound right?

I ran a thread before I bought the PFC, boost cont and cam and was told I should have been able to get close to 200rwkw. I'm only at about 187rwkw. Any advice would be great.

Thanks

Chris

Hi GTS 33, unless the dyno room is airconditioned, ambient temperature could easily account for the 8% difference. Remember a decrease of 8 degrees Celsius = 5%.

We had a super cold day last weekend (6.5 degrees) and I whipped the GTST on the dyno and it pulled 230 rwkw. Previous best was 210 rwkw at 25 degrees. No modifications since.

Comparing different cars on different days is waste of time.

It's the 22 rwhp increase over the day that is more interesting. Experience would say 5 to 10 rwhp for the exhaust cam gear and 15 to 20 rwhp for the PFC. Then you would have to add the additional hp from the boost increase, if you had any. So 22 rwhp looks a little on the light side.

I would look at the air fuel ratios, the ignition timing and the boost and make sure they are all optimised. Also check the exhaust timing, it should be around 4 degrees retarded for max hp.

Hope that helps

Hey SydneyKid

Thanks for that info. Not really clued up on the pfc as yet, still gotta have a play. Do you have any advice of what the air/fuel ratios, ignition timing and boost should be set at for best results without damaging anything?

Pretty sure my boost is set at 13.1, spoke to 25GTT he says that might be a little hi.

Thanks for your help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...