Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Can anyone tell me the difference between a R33 GTS-T 1996 series 2 and R33 GTS-4 1996 series 2.

I know the gts4 is 4WD Turbo (and so it handles like a gtr) if it has GTR 4WD transmission.

Also price differences etc. (r they cheaper for eg?). also if u wanna convert to rwd how much, pros, cons etc. .

the one im interested in is a RB25det conversion and is a 2door- and asking price is 11g's. advice plz

Cheers

Edited by Gold 180
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188373-gts-4/
Share on other sites

If you really want to go through a conversion to RWD, you'd be better off saving yourself the trouble and looking at GTS-Ts' rather than GTS-4s'.

You'd be able to pick up a decent S2 GTST for maybe 14-17k

sorry for not directly answering your questions by the way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188373-gts-4/#findComment-3396913
Share on other sites

Thats correct. Only R32 GTS-4's came in a turbo version. R33 GTS-4's only came in non-turbo, so if you find one, it has had an engine swap. Engine would have come from a Stagea most likely as a GTST RB25 wouldn't fit due to the front diff. The whole sump is shaped differently.

It may also be an RB25DE + t which you should look out for. If it is a non-turbo engine with a turbo wacked on, you will be very restricted with mods mainly due to the higher compression ratio.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188373-gts-4/#findComment-3398016
Share on other sites

also with the r33 gts4 if you put a conversion switch in them they arent constant 2wd all of a sudden they will switch back on something to do with the front driveshaft but with the r32 gts4 its all good i just swiych on 2wd and its stays on untill i turn it off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188373-gts-4/#findComment-3403861
Share on other sites

Not quite right mate..

With the 33 and 34 4wd systems, there is always a certain amount of preload on the transfer case, so turning off the computer doesn't remove all the mechanical link. Therefore if you throw a 33 or 34 on a 2wd dyno and only pull the fuse and expect it to be ok, you will most likely toast your transfer case clutch pack.

It doesn't all of a sudden come back on...

james.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188373-gts-4/#findComment-3406189
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...