Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah, yeah, yeah....tell everyone the truth!!!

Its that big juicy kiss you gave me at the airport :worship:

haha yeah......... ;) :laughing-smiley-014:

Any1 put in an oil catch can before?

what did you guys use to block the holes?

i read to use some threaded plugs?

any1? cheers

We have used "Door Stops" (thats what they look like) with hose clamps around them..you can get them at supercheap, clark rubber pretty sure :P

yeah pretty much might have to re-pin one of the sensors plugs but there a little cheaper for R33 gtr than R32 gtr :D

cool cheers man

JDM Yo! at least if the police cant read it tell them your car is the biggest tyre size

Morning Maz ;)

I am starting to feel better :w00t:

i didnt block any of the holes, i just ran the catch can in between the passenger side rocker cover and afm pipe

yeh i was reading up on the 5 million plumbing set ups for the catch can and sydneykid recons on the GTR its best to run the 2 hoses from the top to pipes on top of the rockets covers. best breathing setup apparently. but yeh your way would make things easier :P

Sinful - yeh im hoping 1 size fits all lol. ill have to try and measure the holes i need to plug ;)

^^ non sexual :S

i just bought a 040 bosch pump to put in my GTR!!! yay then just found out its not much of an upgrade :worship: i couldnt get the search engine on SAU to work so i was flying blind if you will.

yeh i was reading up on the 5 million plumbing set ups for the catch can and sydneykid recons on the GTR its best to run the 2 hoses from the top to pipes on top of the rockets covers. best breathing setup apparently. but yeh your way would make things easier ;)

Sinful - yeh im hoping 1 size fits all lol. ill have to try and measure the holes i need to plug ;)

^^ non sexual :S

i just bought a 040 bosch pump to put in my GTR!!! yay then just found out its not much of an upgrade :worship: i couldnt get the search engine on SAU to work so i was flying blind if you will.

The search button is working now...It's an alright upgrade (I havent upgrdaed mine yet) are you getting injectors to go with it? What power output are you going for? Do you know what teh GTR puts out now??

Mine with nothing done to it made 206kws at the rears at dyno day last year :P

link catch can

Another link

thanks jess :P

im pretty sure on its tune (about 10-11psi boost) ben said he rekons close to 210 maybe more, bens mechanic said it picks up faster than stock GTRs :worship:

nah i dont have new injectors yet, i was going to get 600cc and a fuel rail all in the 1 hit? thoughts?

i want about 250-270kw eventually, i wanna see how much i can get with out swapping out the turbos but want to eventually, maybe after my GTS-t sells.

what are my options jess?

thanks jess ;)

im pretty sure on its tune (about 10-11psi boost) ben said he rekons close to 210 maybe more, bens mechanic said it picks up faster than stock GTRs :P

nah i dont have new injectors yet, i was going to get 600cc and a fuel rail all in the 1 hit? thoughts?

i want about 250-270kw eventually, i wanna see how much i can get with out swapping out the turbos but want to eventually, maybe after my GTS-t sells.

what are my options jess?

yeah 210 sounds about right ;) Have you got an aftermarket ecu?

Fuel rail up to you , dont really need it :worship: Injectors yep 600cc would be fine..You wouldnt really need injectors until later either cause Jay and I are both running standard injectors still in our GTR's and getting the same power...

I have 300kws and didnt take me many mods to get there and that sort of power is lots of fun! The power FC was the main component that helped me get there!

Hmm do you know what turbos you have now? Mine are standard but pretty sure are steel wheeled so handling 1bar well

the ecu has got a mines sticker on the ECU so im pretty sure itll have a different fuel map, and yeh its not running stock boost about 10-11 is my guess :P

Oh that's right you told me at villies :worship: sorry!

My 2 cents: I would be worried about the ceramic turbos letting go (if they are ceramic)...So I would go turbo's first and then getting injectors, cams and stuff later and can up the boost and get more power out of it..

I only say that cause I have standard steel wheel turbos and have put the boost up to 1bar and getting 300 out of it with stock internals and minor mods like cam gears, catch can set up..I also love responsive turbos so have kept them on ans waiting for them to fail so can do next upgrage which will be going up to 350kws going garret turbos 2860 -5, injectors, bigger fuel pump (walbro) and drop in PonCams.

I dare say that the stock rb26 turbos can handle 10-11 psi, but its always better to be safe than to be sorry i guess.

Chad is still waiting for the turbos Steve!

Damo,

What turbos are you talking about?

Yeah the stock turbos can handle it but I just dont trust ceramic :worship: plus never know how long they have been on there for and what sort of life they have had??

can someone maybe point me in the right direction for info on the gtr turbo's??? ive got a set of 33 gtr ones in the shed and was lookin at having some work done to them and chuck em on with a list of other mods, or would i be better buying some HKS numbers???

**edit: ive come from the world of carbies so go easy lol

Edited by rhys5169

So turbos first hey? how bad are the stock GTR turbos? in the way of letting go? how can i get the steel wheel 1's? is there a way to do a conversion?

what about dumps and front? do that when i get new turbos?

*edit*

bens mechanical pulled the turbos off not too many kms ago to have a look and they are in good nick ;)

Edited by joeleo87
can someone maybe point me in the right direction for info on the gtr turbo's??? ive got a set of 33 gtr ones in the shed and was lookin at having some work done to them and chuck em on with a list of other mods, or would i be better buying some HKS numbers???

**edit: ive come from the world of carbies so go easy lol

Turbo Spec sheet

Google the part numbers on the turbo should be able to find out what they are..Or look on my spec sheet in the link...

To revamp them cost just as much to buy new...If in ok condition like no shaft play or noisey when spinning the inlet wheel chuck them up for sale and see what happens..But most are in the market for steel wheel turbos these days as the safer way to go ;)

Turbo Spec sheet

Google the part numbers on the turbo should be able to find out what they are..Or look on my spec sheet in the link...

To revamp them cost just as much to buy new...If in ok condition like no shaft play or noisey when spinning the inlet wheel chuck them up for sale and see what happens..But most are in the market for steel wheel turbos these days as the safer way to go ;)

i was told the 33 gtr turbo's had steel wheels??? (they came free with my car anyways).......

i just dont trust the ceramic so always looking for a way to avoid leaving them on there

So turbos first hey? how bad are the stock GTR turbos? in the way of letting go? how can i get the steel wheel 1's? is there a way to do a conversion?

what about dumps and front? do that when i get new turbos?

There not bad just limited to what you can do with them..Steel wheel are everywhere only stock R32, R33 and R34 had cermaic turbos all the rest on teh market are steel wheel now :) Its expensive to get them steel wheeled! But it is an option you can do!

Oh yep definately reccomend aftermarket dumps and front pipes...But dumps are a pain in teh arse to do so best to do it when you going to do turbo as well LOL..Not winning are we ! ;)

i was told the 33 gtr turbo's had steel wheels??? (they came free with my car anyways).......

i just dont trust the ceramic so always looking for a way to avoid leaving them on there

Check the numbers on the turbo..but could be N1 spec or have been steel wheel in standard housing in japan like mine ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...