Jump to content
SAU Community

Found some Hypereutectic pistons not that expensive!

Cubes

By Cubes,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

http://www.pavtek.com.au/pp_rebuildkits.html

This is a rebuild kit for a RB30ET so for $700 od dollars which includes:

Hypereutectic pistons & rings

Mains and big end bearings

Cam bearings

Full gasket set

that would mean that the pistons are worth bugger all maybe $400-500?

I priced new pistons from Nissan RB30E just standard NA pistons and they were $720.

I've emailed them so i'll let you know what I come up with....

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That it is.. I'm waiting for a response.. I quizzed him regarding a slightly higher compression ratio or using the specs from a set of NA pistons etc.. ;)

But yer I'll keep you posted.

If the pistons are 400-500 I might grab a set and slap them in before the head goes on. Worth it really especially for only 400-500. Providing they are good that is.

Forged ARIAS RB30E Pistons and rings are $1600. :eek:

raist60 Community Regular

raist60

Posted
Posted

I thought it might be worthwhile mentioning that high-silicon content pistons (Hypereutectic) are extremely intolerant of pinging. The are a very brittle piston weaker even than stock cast pistons (in regards to detonation). Their benifits are low expansion and very light.

Any pinging will most likely knock these pistons apart. Be carefull guys.

edit: well not weaker than standard pistons, i mean more brittle

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ahh ok thanx peoples..

That throws that idea out of the window.. I was under the impression that those pistions where better than standard pistons hence inbetween forged and standards.

Oh well.. ;) Stick with the standards then.

raist60 Community Regular

raist60

Posted
Posted

I read that too on the internet but its only ever written on the sites of places that sell them :) hehe

I just remember that they dont like pinging. You cant mess with the best (forged) in terms of sheer strength.

I personally think that the hypereutectic pistons would kick ass in a NA engine were there is no huge heat / nasty cylinder pressures / razor edge of detonation.

Skyrine-Dave Mentor

Skyrine-Dave

Posted
Posted

get hypereutectic pistons, light weight, less stress

get a decent tune

dont let it png, decent aftermarket ECU, a cooler and a normal boost level should be ok.. so i am hoping :)

some of the VL boyz i have spoken to reckon that everyone is crazy for using stock NA pistons with an 8.3:1 CR.... they say that more than 15psi on NA pistons will break them etc

i also noticed that they are more inclined to shave the pistons back to 8:1 where as the skyline guys want to move closer to 9:1

.....

raist60 Community Regular

raist60

Posted
Posted

To say dont let it ping, i dont know of anyone that MEANT to detonate their engine. I would personally like a bit of room to feel comfortable. Say for example you make 1 ****up with a boost controller you could lose ya bottom end?

Whatever rings your bells i suppose :)

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

I cant remember if i was reading a magazine or a thread here that someone mentioned that it was rarely the pistons that go; more likely to be rods due to more concentrated force/unit area? SydneyKid?

JNR24 Proficient

JNR24

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by -Joel-

I am also aware of the VL boys that run such low comp ratios.. Why I'm not sure.. Maybe they have more issues with detonation due to head design????

Perhapes this is because the VL boyz are only running a SOHC 12 valve head. To compensate for the lack of genral flow in the combustion chamber they have to run lower compression ratios.

And with those T04s, = more air = gasses not escaping quick enough because theres not enough flow in the head = detenation = lower compression ratios = less detenation :P

Hope that makes sense.

CHeers,

Trev

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

There is a thread that explains the relevance of boost and piston damage - basically detonation causes piston damage, not boost pressure - to qualify, boost pressure increases heat which may push a cylinder over the detonation threashold, but it is not boost directly - you just cant say xxpsi will stuff NA pistons, as long as you keep detonation at bay.

And I agree totally with raist60. Especially once you go down the mod path, engines do ping from time to time with changes in climate, fuel etc. Almost impossible to completely eliminate. Quite often even a knock sensor wont pick up ping.

TonyGTSt: there is a thread about forged pistons and $$, fatz says he can get forged pistons and rings for $1100/set of six.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...