Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls i already did a search but the threads don't really come into my criteria ;)....well this week i took my gauges out...they were the Auto Guage ones connnected to the radio for power.....so i took them out and now my radio doesn't turn on :worship: im pretty sure i connected up all the wires....and also my clock doesn't turn on but my climate control works perfectly....if somoene could shed some light it'd be good...and also can anyone post the english version of the inside under drivers side fuse box ?

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189726-r33-clockradio-not-working/
Share on other sites

Hey guys and girls i already did a search but the threads don't really come into my criteria ;)....well this week i took my gauges out...they were the Auto Guage ones connnected to the radio for power.....so i took them out and now my radio doesn't turn on :worship: im pretty sure i connected up all the wires....and also my clock doesn't turn on but my climate control works perfectly....if somoene could shed some light it'd be good...and also can anyone post the english version of the inside under drivers side fuse box ?

Cheers

Chi

hey buddy. check the 8th or 9th fuse on the right hand side. im sure thats the stereo 1!

Edited by R33 S2

alright guys i put in the Audio 10 amp fuse and the clocked worked again, but my intereior light near the middle of the roof kinda works and kinda doesn't :laugh: like when i open the passenger door it lights up then when i open the drivers door (with passenger door closed) it doesn't light up :? so is this a fuse again? radio still doesn't work but i think thast cause the wiring si wrong any help would be good

Cheers

Chi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...