Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Looking at putting coilovers on my car and i've noticed with the exception of tein (being a lil more) most coilover brands have the same features, claim to have the same abilities and are roughly the same price tag. How can you pick out the true high performing coilovers from the rest or are they all roughly going to give the same result.

If it helps my cars main application is street but i dont need coilovers for street. I need them to keep up and hopefully beat those damn evos' haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/
Share on other sites

Hi there i dont know what car you have but mine is a R32 GTR and i just put ion a set of TEIN Mono flex and they are brilliant i have said before all my friends have been using Tein for street and track work and they are built well and reliable dont leak easily at all unless you mount a gutter or fly of the track at 120klms in grass and soil holes.

They run 7kg spring rate front and back and are comfortable but give your car rail handling OMG there good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3422763
Share on other sites

How can you pick out the true high performing coilovers from the rest or are they all roughly going to give the same result.

The one thing that coilover literature doesn't tell you, and what makes or breaks a coilover kit, is the performance of the dampers. They can crap on about how they're made (mono tube, inverted, whatever) but its the interplay between the spring and damper rates are what makes a car handle well in an initial impression (the construction and materials used will only really tell you how they'll last when hammered for a while).

The other thing is that suspension setup is very personal. Everyone's driving style is a little different, and so the feel you get from the car is also different. The only thing I can suggest is to try a couple of cars out with the parts you want, and see if you like it. That's what I did when I was shopping for coilovers for my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3423723
Share on other sites

The reason for most people listing all the features now is everyone is about getting as many features for as little money as possible. In the end, you just get a shit damper, which in my opinion is the heart of a suspension system.

Do your research first and try and find out as much about the damper as possible. As a general rule of thumb, I will avoid any coilover kit under $1600 (ISC, D2, G4, HSD, etc), but that's just my opinion, a lot of people are quite content to run them and are happy with them. I drove with one of those brands and thought they were absolutely shit.

Spend as much as practical on your shocks and it will be a good base to work off of.

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3423832
Share on other sites

I got the Bilsteins from Sydneykid's groupbuy, also have the "coilover conversion kit" with it.

oi Salad can you show us the "coilover conversion kit" is? WHere did you get it and how much? Im assuming that you are converting from Sk's blistein into a coilover? Effectiveness of it? Dollars saved?

Yudy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3424381
Share on other sites

Same as the kit discussed in this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t188741.html

Bilstein make the kit, and then you can use any rectangular coil you want. Like the others, I've used Eibachs

Got the kit from the groupbuy, it costs another $1000 or so ontop of the original shocks.

I'm very happy with the results, and recommend the setup to everyone.

I think you'd be hard pressed to find another "coilover" that will be as good for the same sort of money.

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3424516
Share on other sites

sp wat ypu have done is you bought Sk's blistein and adjusted it according to the grove?! And you are using Eiback springs for it instead of whiteline? That was actually what i wanted to in the first place but it will set me back 2ks for it from Sk. Where did you get the Eiback springs form?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3424552
Share on other sites

What the coilover kit is, is a threaded sleave that sits on the circlip instead of a spring seat. Then there is a spring seat on the threaded sleave, so it is a threaded height adjustment.

I got the whole package from SK. I'm using Eibach coils instead of Whiteline because Whiteline dont make rectangular coils. At least not anymore anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189816-coilover-brands/#findComment-3424622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...