Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Controler Settings

dead32

By dead32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

hey guys im just wondering if someone could correctly explain to me the settings on the profec b spec 2.. boost is obvious however whats teh deal with gain and affecting boost maximum, also theres a setting for wastegate percentage.. please explain :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191665-boost-controler-settings/
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

Gain is used to adjust the boost curve if it is creeping or tailing off. You should fiddle with this first to get it to hold a constant boost, then increase the SET value to achieve the boost required. (For instance I was running 25% SET and 11% GAIN to achieve a reasonably solid 12psi). These %'s are dependant on the base boost determined by the actuator, the higher the actuator pressure, the easier it will be to tune the ebc and it will be easier on the actuator and ebc solenoid as neither has to work as hard.

The SET GAIN value is when it opens the waste gate and is set in PSI or kPA depending on which unit you have the controller set to use. Start low with this one, and increase it till it starts to cause spikes then back it off slightly. Essentially what this setting is doing is keeping the wastegate SHUT until a specified pressure, as opposed to the gate slowly opening as pressure builds. I had mine set to 8.5psi on low boost (12psi setting) and 9psi on the high settings (14psi). Hadn't gotten around to fine tuning it anymore. Basically it makes for faster spooling :)

This was all on my RB20, haven't had the boost controller on with the RB30 but once I get it back from the tuners this afternoon I may have to fine tune the controller again - was having big problems holding boost with the RB25 actuator (6psi instantly and creeping to 12psi by 6000rpm), they put my RB20 actuator on so hopefully it holds boost a little better.

Edited by bubba
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...