Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for the 18" track wheels from Nissan they retail for about $600 each. 2nd hand ones on ebay or around the forums in good condition can be picked up for roughly $600-$800 full set w/o tires

I am pretty sure the 'track' rims (18x8) are $1100 each from Nissan. Anniversary are even more still!

But touring rims (17x8) you might be able to pick up for $600 each from Nissan. Though they don't look near as good imo.

For a mint set (no gutter rash, scratches, scuffs or damage) of 18x8 track rims you are looking at $900-$1000 a set. Not bad considering they are $4,400 new from Nissan! :spank: But these are extremely rare to find in pristine condition. There are a few around that have damage that can be had for $700-$800, but it's worth the extra dough for the undamaged ones because you will always notice the gutter rash etc on the cheaper set and it will be a constant eye sore. :)

BTW the track rims look awesome on any Nissan. They are probably the most versatile rim in the whole Nissan range that look good on every car. :) Seen them on R32, R33, R34, S13, S14, S15, 180SX, 300ZX etc and they all looked awesome. They actually look better on Skylines, Silvias, 180SX's & 300ZX's then they do on the 350Z!

Edited by HotPlates
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191959-350z-rims/#findComment-3463910
Share on other sites

How do ya know which ones are the track wheels? Are they the 18x8 wheels? Or is there a specific lightweight version? Cheers and sorry for the thread hijack. :)

Touring are 17x8 and are 7 spoke (least expensive)

Track are 18x8 and are 6 spoke

Anniversary are 18x8 and are 5 spoke (most expensive)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191959-350z-rims/#findComment-3463945
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...