Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

The time has come to part with my passion....

I changed jobs at the start of the year and lost my company car.

The job I am doing now requires me to do a far bit of driving and some times with customers.

So unfortunatly I can not afford to buy a second car so the only option is to sell...

The car is in great condition, engine fully built and making good power.

My first tune that I did was very mild and now probly due to crank it up a bit.

At 1.2 bar with little timming the car made 450HP. The cams need adjusting and a little more time on a tune and this combo will easy make 400 rwKw (520-530 Hp)

This is a very regretful sale and the price will not move much.

I will post some picture sortly and a dyno sheet. The car is very responsive!!!

Performance

Full engine rebuild less than 6,000 Km’s (January)

2860r-5’s Garret turbo's with S/S manifolds

R34 Rb26 Crank

N1 oil pump

Eagle H beam rods

AP rod bolts

CP Pistons 86.5mm Bore

Tommi rod and main bearings

Head fully rebuilt

Tommi oil restrictor

ACL race series Metal head gasket

Full Nissan gasket set

Full match ported head

R33 RB26dett Block

HKS oil filter relocation kit

HKS oil cooler

Tommi pon cams type B

Tommi adjustable cam gears

Sard 700 cc injectors

Trust sump ex-tension and baffle kit

G-reddy twin BOV’s

Apexi air intakes

RB20 air flow meters

Nismo oil separator

G-reddy radiator

G-reddy high pressure cap

16” Thermo fan

Jasma 3.5" exhaust

Custom 3” dump pipes

N1 water pump

Nissan Timing belt

Fuel pump – Bosch 044 in tank with power up-grade

HKS triple plate clutch 80%+

Battery re-location to boot

Hi-cas removed – Lock bar fitted

Custom intake piping (3”)

N1 oil pump

Electrics

Apexi power FC

Apexi hand control

Apexi AVCR

HKS turbo timer

Pro Comp oil Gauge

Exterior

17” Volk GTP rims with 90% tread (255/40/R17)

Falken front lip

Tein coil overs

Brembo brakes (front- Project MU pads)

Apexi front two piece rotors

Interior

Alpine deck & 12 disc stacker,

320km dash

Key less entry (immobilizer)

No time for people wanting to go for a thrash...

Price $26,500 ono

Contact me VIA PM or 0437518009

I am in Canningvale area of Perth WA

post-12745-1194346819_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194346853_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194434944_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194434986_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194435055_thumb.jpg[attachment

128105:DSC_0386.JPG]post-12745-1194435138_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194435183_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194435224_thumb.jpgpost-12745-1194435251_thumb.jpg

post-12745-1195640150_thumb.jpg

post-12745-1194435100_thumb.jpg

Edited by seeyagtr

Hi,

I built the engine my self, I have done 4 full engine rebuild on gtrs (Rb26dett and rb26det) engines now the they are all making 350-400 rwkw with simular builds. (Contacts/Reference's advilable if required)

The tune has been done by Top Racing. I will post the dyno Sheet today. (Have to get hold of a scanner)

Cheers

This thing is clean as guys. Used this in my wedding. One of the cleanest GTR's out there. Painstakingly looked after.

Goes hard, sounds hot and looks amazing.

IMO a absolute bargain!!

Good luck dude.

Hi Guys.

Shame to see Rory selling his beast. Has had it for 4 years, Always garaged, always clean, always serviced every 5000km.

He helped me build my RB26det, that will tune for 400+rwkw.

This car goes, stops and turns every time.

Would be a steal at this price.

cms

This is an absolute f**king bargain, good luck with the sale mate!!!

Most stockish GTR's go for 20-23k... (in decent condition)... so a fully built motor for $3k more? You can't even buy the turbos alone for that price! :whistling:

Good luck,

Christian

HI guys,

This car is still for sale, the car is in great condition with the power to match!!!

Also posted in the WA for sale section!

sent pm

Edited by Marko R1
How is the dyno sheet coming?

Also, how wide are the wheels?

HI,

Thanks for the heads up on the dyno sheet,

This tune is what the car is running now, if you want the car for top end power the inlet cam needs to be retarded 2-4 degress and the exhust 2 degress.

With the cams timming now I have gained mid range torque and get the turbos to spool on quickly.

The car reachs full boost at 3800 to 4000 rpm. The car normal runs waste gate pressure at 0.9 bar.

The car has 17 X 9 1/2 rims with 255/45 R17 tyres.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...