Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Knocking suspension I've had for a while is getting worse. Tied it down to the left hand front. Nearly every time I pull off now I get a clunk clunk sound. Not when I go over bumps or anything just when I pull off. So I read somewhere about the topmounts being loose. Tonight gone to the topmounts of my HKS hypermax and with a spanner tried to tighten or loosen the nut in the centre of the topmount...see pic...what happened was the entire thread turned aswell on both sides with the nut as if it were 1 complete unit. Is this correct ?

Cheers

Ad

topmount.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192529-topmount-query/
Share on other sites

your probably just adjusting the damper.

check more for a bush that is totally gone, so when you change forces on it it goes from one end of the hole to the other rather than staying where it is supposed to be stuck. probably a lower arm etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192529-topmount-query/#findComment-3459722
Share on other sites

Well thanks for the replies guys :thumbsup: will have a look at the allen key bolts but am probably just gonna change the topmounts for some cusco ones as long as I get the right ones to fit the hipermax....

Odd question I know but off the top of your heads anyone know the diameter of the springs on HKS hiermax coilovers?

Cheers

Ad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192529-topmount-query/#findComment-3461093
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...