Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i just picked up my shiny new (for me) 97 gtst and was paying a fair bit of attention to the oil pressure gauge when driving it around today

at idle it sits just under the 4 and when pushing it a bit goes up to just over 6.

Is that normal and or safe?

also when warming it up if u give it a bit of gas the pressure just keeps rising till you back off, then slowly drops off again. is that normal?

Not sure what the norm is and would rather find out now rather then in a few weeks the hard way.

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192903-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

I don't have a lot of faith in the factory oil pressure gauge but your readings sound normal.

I have an aftermarket gauge and it shows completely different readings to the factory one. I've had an electrical and a mechanical gauge both showing the same readings, so I'm pretty sure it's accurate.

When at normal operating temp. my oil pressure is about 30psi (~2 bar) at idle and about 80psi at 3000rpm, on the aftermarket gauge.

Don't take too much notice of the reading when the engine is cold as they will always be higher until your oil warms up and thins out a bit. And, yes it is also normal for oil pressure to rise and fall as the engine revs do.

Do an oil change so you know what you have in there ( I'd suggest a full synth 5 or 10W 40) and then relax, it all sounds normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192903-oil-pressure/#findComment-3465867
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...