Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have done a lot of research and I still feel that I need a lot of assistance on this please so I am ever so sorry if this has been posted somewhere and I have missed it.

I have a R33 GTS-T with a HKS GT2535 and plenty of upgrades running at approximately 235rwkw (safe tune).

Back when it was a bit cooler a few weeks ago my average water temp was 85 - 90degrees and now that the temperatures are in the 30's + it is now running at 95 degrees on average and has gotten up to 102 which is the highest I've seen it. I'm getting this temperature from my Power FC hand controller. My stock temperature gauge has never budged above 'average'. On the weekend I did a radiator flush and put in the best coolant on the market hoping that this would assist in cooling it down a bit thinking maybe the previous owner had diluted the concentrated mix a bit too much however this didn't assist.

I have read that the coolant is safe up to approximately 137 degrees and my oil (10W - 40) is safe up to 148 degrees and with the oil temp being an average of 35 degrees hotter then the water temp my car should be pretty safe still at the moment on the basis that it does not get any hotter!

I do not have an upgraded radiator and I am aware that the front mount intercooler does reduce air to the radiator causing these cars to be hotter then normal. I would prefer not to upgrade the radiator if there is another way around cooling my car down quite substantially. I haven't replaced the thermostat yet but it is on my to do list this weekend as well as taking my radiator to be properly serviced in case it is seriously blocked.

I have read that an Oil Cooler will divert the oil through the cooler once the oil reaches a certain temp and will cool the oil and the whole car? If this is the case then would I need to upgrade the radiator?

I do not know much about Oil Coolers and wouldn't have a clue where to start to be honest. I have read about them but nothing has pointed me in the right direction. What is better, getting an Oil Cooler that only diverts the oil once at a certain temp or one that is flowing the oil through all the time? Does anyone recommend any particular brand or 'type'? What real difference does it make as to whether I buy a 19 row, 25 row or a 50 row? Will it cool my car a lot more to get a 50 row or is it really about the amount of space I have in the engine bay?

I apologise for all the questions and would really appreciate no one bagging me out for 'not knowing enough' or doing enough 'research' as I really have tried my absolute hardest and I don't particularly want to get ripped off by some mechanic trying to bollocks me with unnecessary expenses. (the negative attitude is from people giving me crap before for asking questions! :wave:

Any assistance on this matter is GREATLY appreciated! :laugh:

Cheers Guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193427-rb25det-running-hot-help-please/
Share on other sites

check again to see how much coolant you have, it may have gone down a bit after running a while to get air out. just happens.

if you have fresh oil, then a simple check would involve removing the thermostat all together. unbolt the housing and remove it with a flathead screwdriver, then remove the thermostat and put everything back with some new liquid gasket. if it overheats without a thermostat, then there is something pretty wrong with your cooling system.

Hi Guys,

I have done a lot of research and I still feel that I need a lot of assistance on this please so I am ever so sorry if this has been posted somewhere and I have missed it.

I have a R33 GTS-T with a HKS GT2535 and plenty of upgrades running at approximately 235rwkw (safe tune).

Back when it was a bit cooler a few weeks ago my average water temp was 85 - 90degrees and now that the temperatures are in the 30's + it is now running at 95 degrees on average and has gotten up to 102 which is the highest I've seen it. I'm getting this temperature from my Power FC hand controller. My stock temperature gauge has never budged above 'average'.

The stocker gauge is more like a 3 way switch, not a constant smooth response, as you've seen; its moved 20 degrees on the HC, and shows nothing on the stock temp gauge. Its to stop the average commuter from freaking out.

On the weekend I did a radiator flush and put in the best coolant on the market hoping that this would assist in cooling it down a bit thinking maybe the previous owner had diluted the concentrated mix a bit too much however this didn't assist

Did you take it somewhere to flush, or do a "home treatment"?

I do not have an upgraded radiator and I am aware that the front mount intercooler does reduce air to the radiator causing these cars to be hotter then normal. I would prefer not to upgrade the radiator if there is another way around cooling my car down quite substantially. I haven't replaced the thermostat yet but it is on my to do list this weekend as well as taking my radiator to be properly serviced in case it is seriously blocked.

Stock radiator and an aftermarket IC still shouldn't really make your car that much hotter. Pull the thermostat out and test it. Procedure should be in the workshop manual; place in water on stove with a thermometer and make sure it opens at the right temp

I have read that an Oil Cooler will divert the oil through the cooler once the oil reaches a certain temp and will cool the oil and the whole car? If this is the case then would I need to upgrade the radiator?

I do not know much about Oil Coolers and wouldn't have a clue where to start to be honest. I have read about them but nothing has pointed me in the right direction. What is better, getting an Oil Cooler that only diverts the oil once at a certain temp or one that is flowing the oil through all the time? Does anyone recommend any particular brand or 'type'?

An oil cooler is an oil cooler, it doesn't redirect anything. Your thinking bout a oil thermostat, or Oil Stat... but most people in Oz don't need / use em.

I apologise for all the questions and would really appreciate no one bagging me out for 'not knowing enough' or doing enough 'research' as I really have tried my absolute hardest and I don't particularly want to get ripped off by some mechanic trying to bollocks me with unnecessary expenses. (the negative attitude is from people giving me crap before for asking questions! :wave:

Any assistance on this matter is GREATLY appreciated! :)

Cheers Guys!

"Use the search button noob"

..

...

Haha, just joshin man, you've clearly done your looking and are desperate to get the issue fixed.

Good luck, let us know how you go

Well... if an auto skyline is like an auto Commodore, the radiator cools the oil also.

In which case, an oil cooler could very well help depending whether you hook it up to the in or out side of the radiator. Ignore this if you're a manual though, hey?

I would guess also, that if the oil is cooler, the water won't get as hot trying to cool the block? So it might be valid anyway?

I guess your last few things to try would be to have a mechanic inspect your waterpump, and check the flow of the radiator.

You might be able to self-test the radiator flow... if you touch (quickly) the upper and lower radiator hoses, and they're the same temp (hot), then it's probably fair to say that the coolant is making it through the whole system, and that the waterpump is doing its job. (and that the thermostat *is* actually opening)

If one side is much much cooler to the touch, then it could be one of those three things: stuck thermostat, faulty waterpump, or a blockage in the core of the radiator.

Well.. it's a free test, might be worth a quick check? (Check after some normal driving, and the temps are up to what you don't like. Then engine off, if you're sticking your arm down the inside of the radiator!)

Thanks so much for your assistance Guys!

I did the flush at home last weekend, I enjoy doing these things myself :P

I am going to take the Thermostat out this weekend and see whats going on and from there if there are no improvements I'll try some of the other suggestions.

I'll keep this up to date with where it all takes me, hopefully it won't be too complicated or expensive to fix not that it really matters cos after all it is my life, my pride and joy :laughing-smiley-014:

Cheers once again! :)

Thanks so much for your assistance Guys!

I did the flush at home last weekend, I enjoy doing these things myself :)

Np.

Keep in mind, the home flush treatments are nothing compared to a proper tank dunk by a radiator specialist.

Okay, here's the go, Lazy Jess didn't take out the Thermostat on the weekend.... BUT I've noticed something that might assist in pointing out what the problem is!

As you all know my car gets HOT, first thing is, if I'm driving at 100kms constant it will sit at around 97-99 degrees but when I'm driving at 70-80kms an hour it cools down to 93-95.

Now the biggest thing I've noticed is, when my car gets above 97 degrees I now turn my heater on, I put it on 32degrees full blast and within 5 minutes my car always cools down to 90degrees or sometimes lower and just stays there, does this say anything in particular?????

Any thoughts are appreciated, I think my overall answer is to just upgrade the damn radiator, I'm not intentionally being lazy, just have a lot going on :ph34r: and I guess I am big time procrastinating too but hey if the heater is cooling my car down when it gets really hot then its not too much of a huge problem right this second as such (just trying to excuse my laziness! :rofl: )

Thanks Guys!

  • 5 months later...
Now the biggest thing I've noticed is, when my car gets above 97 degrees I now turn my heater on, I put it on 32degrees full blast and within 5 minutes my car always cools down to 90degrees or sometimes lower and just stays there, does this say anything in particular?????

yeah, cars do that..wen using the heater that is fully cranked up..full fan speed..and the highest temp..

that the engine does cool quicker...

its good if u just bein doing drags or bein doin burnouts for a while..o do this if u want ur engine to cool down quicker....

i dont have a rough idea why..but maybe??

wen the temp. switch or climate control to the hottest temp. eg. 32degree's....

the blower motor is using engine heat..

which is being suck in through the cowl cover(air vents)???

which causes ur engine heat to sucked away..is this correct??lol

just a theory..lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...