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A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
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Ah. I dunno why, but I skim read your earlier post and thought the manual switch was to force it on, not force it off. I'd be tempted to have both. So, your two in series, and another in parallel with those. Or, a master arm switch, followed by the manual force on and the thermo in parallel. 6 and 2 3s.
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Yeah been doing it in an x shape. Do you reckon it's worth putting guide coat early where the filler isn't sanded down completely smooth? Reason I ask is because as I'm sanding it one part might be level which I don't need to sand anymore but the other part might be high so I can just focus on that instead of sanding across the whole repair area. I wonder if the putty is too thin, though the area is almost completely smooth before I do it as I've already put filler prior. -
Just 2, and inline. One switch temp related other switch driver controlled. I'm nearly in my head back to Arduino land for it...
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