Jump to content
SAU Community

Nsw- Eoi Supercharged Mk1 Golf

my03

By my03,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

my03 Explorer

my03

Posted
Posted (edited)

Make: Volkswagon

Model: mk1 golf gls

Milage: ??

Colour: green

Location: Sydney

RWC supplied? yes

Currently registered? yes

Price: open to offers

Contact: [email protected]

Hey guys, just putting out a eoi for my mk1 golf, it's fully worked and fully sorted. I'm going overseas for a month in december and although ill have no problems keeping it, if someone will take it i will sell.

VW Mk1 Golf GLS (4-door) SUPERCHARGED 2.0l

1979

Body in excellent condition, slight rust in front guards at the bottom of the wheel arch, these panels are bolt on panels, i have one spare ready to be preped and painted, you can get them for about 80 bucks each. Absolutely none in the usual pillars or hatch or anywhere else and definitely no structural areas. Surface rust behind the rear number plate easily fixed. this car passed rego, blue slip , engeneers etc so you know its very minor

Car had only two previous owners first owner was a old lady, then it was sold to a enthusiest who did all the work, i bought this off him in july. The car has been my daily driver and it is very reliable and i have not had any troubles with it. Doors close beautifully, windows wind smoother than any mk1 I have seen and even the dash is hardly cracked.

Modifications:

- Supercharged Intercooled rebuilt 1995 2.0l AGG 8v motor,

- microtech LT8 engine management system,

- 5-speed gearbox, sway bars,

- Sirocco10.1” brakes,

- Spax sport springs/Sachs shocks,

- 2.5” exhaust with mandrel bends,

- tinted windows,

- sway bars,

- vl fuel pump

- volvo injectors

- and a load of other bits and pieces such as strengthened cv's etc

This engine produced 112kw@wheels (approx 145kw@flywheel) when first dyno-ed however it is expected to make a little more since larger injectors were fitted (from a Volvo 740t – 300cc injectors) and the rev limiter was lifted.

The supercharger is a SC14 from a Toyota crown and has an electro-magnetic clutch (like on an air-conditioner compressor). It can be switched on and off mad-max style and there is a switch near the steering wheel for easy access. The change when you turn it on is quite dramatic. There is no lag whatsoever and you have 9-10psi boost any time you flick that switch doesn’t matter what revs you are doing. The engine and exhaust note changes dramatically too. lot of people have asked me if i have a group a v8 in there, apparently it sounds like this when the blower is on.

With the supercharger turned off the car still produced 68kw@wheels (approx 85kw@flywheel) so is no slouch. The car ran a low 14-second 99mph quarter on crappy street tyres and could probably go quicker based on that trap speed. I had the smaller injectors and hence the intrusive rev limiter which I hit at least once on both runs.

The gearbox has a taller diff ratio than some of the earlier 5-speeds (3.67:1) which I prefer for street driving as the gearing becomes a bit taller and first gear is not over in the blink of an eye. There is more than enough torque to handle this.

The car is fully engeneered and has rego till july 2008

The car is valued at 9500 with just cars third part fire and theft, im open to offers of purchase or swapping for cars of interest.I'm after 6000 for the car or im happy to swap for thing newer plus cash.

please email me on [email protected] for inquirys

IMG_0261.jpg

IMG_0262.jpg

IMG_0266.jpg

IMG_0266.jpg

IMG_0265.jpg

Edited by my03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193505-nsw-eoi-supercharged-mk1-golf/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...