Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, the disadvantages of a shorter diff are decreased fuel economy, increased noise, and increased engine wear.

Fitting a longer stroke crank is also going to decrease fuel economy, and increase engine wear exactly the same.

It all has to do with piston speed with relationship to road speed. You can change the relationship to give more piston travel for each meter along the road, you increase the leverage. A longer stroke will do it, and shorter gear ratios will do it as well.

It really makes no difference if the engine operates at atmospheric pressure, or some boost level, exactly the same principles apply.

But there are other factors that come into it as well. One is rotating inertia, particularly of the flywheel. You are not just accelerating the car, but also the flywheel and the whole drive-train as well. A lower gear ratio is going to make this effect worse.

Another factor is piston ring friction in the bore. A long stroke engine is going to add a lot more friction, whereas a shorter gear ratio is not going to add any extra sliding friction.

Since yesterday, I have been experimenting with different stroke combinations on my Dyno 2000 software engine simulator. It is really interesting, I can vary the stroke from 70mm to well over 100mm while leaving every other engine parameter exactly the same, including the compression ratio.

What happens is that engine torque changes exactly as engine capacity does, but there are absolutely huge differences in the shape of the power curve.

A long stroke engine produces very high torque low in the RPM range, and that torque stays fairly flat, then falls off very quickly as RPM rise because the induction system can no longer feed the engine. The power rises to a sharp and narrow peak at mid RPM and then drops like a stone.

The identical engine with a short stroke has very poor low RPM torque, that smoothly rises to a shallow hump at mid RPM, and continues on up to quite high RPM, tailing off only gradually.

The power curve is much flatter and broader than the long stroke engine, but occurs at much higher RPM, and continues on. It does not drop off anywhere near as fast as with the long stroke engine.

Interestingly the short stroke engine also produces about 8% more peak power. This can only be because of reduced ring friction, because I did not change anything else.

As I kept reducing the stroke, the power kept rising, but peaking at a higher RPM, with less torque everywhere.

The engine I have modeled is a supercharged and inter-cooled RB26 running 15psi boost with special blower cams and ported head. I used that only because that is what I am playing with at the moment.

The power maximum I was getting was 499 BHP at 8500RPM, and 405 ft/lb at 4500 RPM.

Power drops to 488BHP at 9,500, and 452 BHP at 11,000 to give an idea of how well this thing breathes at the top end.

Now all I did was increase the stroke to make it an RB30.

Torque went up to 485 ft/lb at 2,000 RPM and fell away after that. Power peaked at 491 BHP at 6,500 with 454 at 8,500, and 353 at 11,000.

so at 11,000 RPM the power fell from 452 to 353 just by increasing the stroke by 14mm. Not that you could actually run either engine at that speed, but it does illustrate a trend.

While these power figures are not high compared to what some of the turbo guys claim, the supercharger produces far more low and mid range torque, in fact the torque is as flat as a ruler between 2,000 and 5,500 at 400 ft/lb, and without lag. So on road performance should be far better than a peaky high power turbo engine of similar or higher power. Easier to drive as well.

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wellI'm doing some thing interesting I'm fitting an sr 20 to my r32

shock horror I hear you say but the proof will be in the driving and in the testing I have been very curious about this conversion for ages as most of you who have been to my site will realise.

yes I love rb's but wanted more torque with out increased capacity the car will be running a stock turbo gtr cooler and exhaust I cant wait for the inital dyno run and I cant wait toget it on to the track to see how it goes. as I find the 180's etc seem to have an edge on us I seriously considered putting the sr into the cefiro but decided against it because I feel I would liek to see the difference in the r32. Ihave a feeling this wont be the last sr conversion I will do

meggala

Enrico, I first purchased Desktop Dyno a few years back it cost only $45 then. I later purchased the Dyno 2000 package which is far better for $145 (it does turbo and supercharged engines). There is now Dyno 2002 available that I have not tried yet.

Motion Software have a website with free demo download programs. The software is distributed worldwide by Mr Gasket Company. Your local speed shop will have the Mr Gasket catalogue, and will order the software in for you.

There are better engine software packages available than Dyno, but they also cost a lot more. Dyno is a very good entry level package though, and exceptional value.

There is an instruction book that comes on the CD that explains a lot of theory on engine operation that will completely change your perception of how a lot of things actually work. You can simulate any engine, and try out a lot of ideas to see what works and what does not. It is particularly good for choosing camshafts.

Joel, I have not experimented with changing the bore size, but will certainly give it a go and get back to you on that one.

Enrico, engine torque is completely independent of bore and stroke or number of cylinders, believe it or not !

Engine capacity is the single main factor that decides torque.

Compression ratio will only have a small effect.

The curious thing about it, is that the state of tune will alter the shape of the torque curve a lot, but peak torque value always remains about the same for a similar capacity engine.

Supercharging or turbocharging makes a big difference to torque, but that is a quite different thing.

Hi guys, this is a really interesting thread. A couple of observations.

Firstly with the longer stroke engine and fuel economy, we find that we can run one gear higher in most cases with a 3.1 litre engine. ie; with the 2.6 litre we used 2nd and 3rd a lot, but with the 3.1 litre we use 3rd and 4th. By lowering the rpm this improves the fuel economy. This is particularly noticeable when driving off boost, which is much easier to do with 3.1 litres.

Secondly Warpseed is OK with the torque, rpm, bhp comparisons. But if you feed in a port and/or a valve size increase, that suits a 3.1 litre, you will find the torque drop off in a 2.6 litre at low rpm is extreme.

You get a similar result from a larger turbo with more airflow capability, but the same maximum boost. I suspect this may also be the case with a supercharger change (either capacity or gearing).

In summary, you could specify a 3.1 litre RB engine to have roughly the same shape power curve as a 2.6 litre RB engine, but with more torque and more bhp everywhere in the rpm range. But you can't do the reverse, in that regard there is no substitute for cubic inches.

Hope that adds to the discussion

I've seen the sr20 put in a 32 before. Looked alright and you could fit a family of four in there as well. Heaps of room left in it. Yes they do tend to have it over us in the take off etc but i find on the freeway the rb's are king. I've got a silvia with an rb20det. I was hoping that with the drop of weight the lack of low down torque wouldn't be as bad in the s13. It goes well, but with the car being completely stock it definately has a lot left in it when you give it some. Will see if i can find that pic of the sr20 skyline.

Yes, I take your point about running taller gearing with the RB30 on a road car. I also agree totally with your comments about valve size (cams) and head work restoring the top end revability of an RB30D conversion.

The point I was trying to make was that putting a 20% bigger displacement engine under a stock head is not going to get you 20% extra power. But if you do the extra work on increasing airflow as well as displacement, that is certainly going to give you a bunch of extra power and torque.

Some people are unhappy after fitting shorter rear end gears because of the increase in noise and fuel consumption. A good way to find out for yourself if it suits your style of driving is to try driving around for a week or two without using fifth gear. If it drives you totally nuts staying in fourth gear after an hours run down the freeway, forget fitting the shorter diff gears because it is going to be like that all the time afterwards.

Actually, with this diff stuff. My car was originally an sr20de, it was fitted with an lsd but i think the ratio may have been different to the sr20det silvias. I find that doing 60klms i generally have it in 5th. What speed are you fellas with r32's generally going into 5th gear?

So how would we actually determine a good cam shaft profile for a RB30DET with the RB25DE head? As it could be a costly exercise playing with different profiles as in AUS or SA even it isn't something that people really have experience ith except for a small minority.

Mase... I sit in 5th at 60kays.

My diff is slowly starting to get a little loose and open wheel every now and again in the wet when doing U-Turns so after the new motor is in I might either look at a mechanical diff or one from a GTR. I need to look or find out the difference with the GTR diffs compared to the GTST diffs.

The original question "RB20DET KW's Per Litre is Better than RB25DET? Why?"

RB20's run more boost.

RB20's have more agressive camshaft timing.

RB25's had to pass more stringent emmission rules.

Try comparing an R34 RB25DET with 206 kw.

Hope that answers the original question

Sydneykid...

RB20's do run more boost but they also run a lower static compression ratio of .5. Therefor the RB25DET doesn't require as much boost to make the same power.

I might have to dig out that engine dyno proggy and have a fiddle to see how the static cr affects power when on boost. ;)

Joel, I would have thought that CR wouldnt really affect peak power on a turbocharged engine, as power is a function of torque and rpm, the main deciding factor would be air flow (or boost, or air and fuel, as this provides the force, once burnt) at a given rpm? Or am I completely missing the point yet again?

That sounds logical Steve however in a thread I think it was the RB30 one Sydneykid said with a higher CR you don't need to run as much boost to make the same power. Maybe its only 1 psi not sure.

Unless I mis-understood him. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...