Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just rewmoved my bleed valve and need to go back to stock boost so i can drive the car... i have one hose coming from what is a pipe underneath my intercooler piping on the left side of the engine (facing the car's front end)... one from the intercooler piping itself and on form the turbo's actuator (i think that what the gold drum thingy is)

and i have the stock boost solenoid which has two connectors and electrical wires coming from it.. so where does each tube go.. dont want no overboostin lol

cheers...yup that helps lots. Is useful i think for others too who might not know what it is ;)

Are those wires blue w/ white stripe and white? I have an orphan plug sitting around, just wondering whether its the same one. Does it require power or is it fully neumatic?

hmmm.. well i have the solenoid in place.. From those photos it appears the bottom hose from the solenoid is going to the wastegate, where as the top hose is to the throttle intake? So all should be fine right?

Unfortunately its not, when i connected it like that infinite boost..it just kept going up and up until about 12psi till i backed it off ;)

There is also a blocked outlet on my (stock) BOV return pipe where it goes back to the turbo, so maybe the top hose is meant to go there? Although the pressure should be pretty much the same shoudlnt' it and make little difference?

I mean i can "cheat" and just connect the intake direct to the wastegate and it will hold correct boost (which i'm doing for running around) but its for an EPA so the solenoid needs to be connected (i think?)

Anybody ?? Quicksmart? if anybody has a standard boost solenoid can they jump out to their car and have a close look plz?

Hi,

The bottom line on the solenoid goes to the T piece that in turn goes to the wastegate actuator (where your bleed valve probably is).

The top line on the solenoid goes back off into the BOV return line. As I recall, it's under the air piping that leads into the turbo inlet.

The striped wire (to the right of the plug) is a constand 13.5 volts

The solid colour wire (the left of the plug) is a negative trigger controlled by the ECU to open the solenoid.

The solenoid is fully electric.

line goes from high pressure side of the intercooler to the waste gate, then a "t" piece, the "T" peice runs a hose the the boost control solenoid, then from there to the hose that runs from the standard BOV to the low pressure side, (between turbo and AFM).

ok.. well i got it all sorted the other night..the key is the t-piece between the intake side and the wastegate - the stock solenoid hangs off that, and its different to my EBC configuration where it sits in between. Now rises to a solid 7psi

In the aid of providing a useful resource, i've posted a couple of pix of how I installed it

All was inspected and passed by the EPA correctly :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...