Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

after having a few complications with my ITS turbo i bought i decided to suck it up and buy a stage 3 slide hiflow, now, i know you have to do some moding to the oil banjo bolt, and i have done a little search but am not 100% confident i know what to do.

would it be possible to just get enzed to make a braided line the same diamater as the stock line except get fittings that are bigger to accomadate for more oil? if i do get this done, what will i have to do about the oil restrictor?

if there is a thread with some more help could you please point me to it as i cant find any LOL

thanks

sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194904-slide-stage-3-hiflow/
Share on other sites

you will have to send a PM to Slide and ask for the link to the pictures that show what need to be done (ie how/where to drill out the banjo)

I went to enzed and got a new line made up, leaving them my old line and the instructions that I got from Slide, so that Enzed would get the overall diameter correct for the braided line

good luck with it.

If you want to use the factory oil line you will need to drill out the restrictor with a 6mm drill bit. To get to the restrictor you need to drill through the "banjo housing" (the knuckle bit on the end of the oil line). You will then need to go to a radiator place (or somewhere similar) and get them to braise/weld over the hole in the banjo housing.

Lazy-Bastard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...