Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i've been long time reader hardly a poster!

2 years ago i was looking into getting a r33 series 2 thats why i joined and did my research

but decided i wasnt ready and i got a hyundai getz to beat around and to learn manual...

2 years later i'm on my fulls now its time to upgrade!

yes i'm still looking into getting a r33 series 2!

but i want to know whats the market value of these nowadays by looking

around on carsales and dealers a see prices ranging from 14k - 20k

i know that theres discrempancy in prices in private sellers and dealers.

but i will be looking at dealers as i truly cbb to go through the process of selling my car

ok i've looked at some dealers and the prices ive seen also go from 14k - 18k

i've got my eyes on a stock 1997 r33 gts-t at fuji motorsport as ive heard good things from them

and the price seems reasonable at 14990(does this seem right? or could be dodgy?)

tomorrow ill be going to check it out

see what kind of changeover price i can get

ask if i can get the car checked by someone like CRD

and also a test drive!

haha thanks for reading my life story im so excited is there anything else that i should look out for?!?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195159-biting-the-bullet-it-is-time/
Share on other sites

Check with UAS, 96209000, they had a shiney, straight black R33 for sale last week, nice tasteful mods and good HP.

I was considering buying for my first liner...........but I slapped myself across the face with a dead fish a few times. :O

a dealer will rip you off twice.

once on your trade in, which will be well below what you could get privately.

and again on the skyline, which is marked up so that they actually make a profit. remember that a dealer is in the business of taking your money off you.

in my experience, having bought a fresh import r33 from a dealer, they "complied" the car and then whacked all the jap stuff straight back on. inc. 10+ year old tyres that came apart inside 3 months...

i intend to buy a r32 gt-r at some point, and certainly this time around i will be buying and selling privately. i advise you to look for one with an engine that has recently been rebuilt. and maybe the turbo and a couple of other things too. buying privately you can get some well modified ones for $15-18k with upgraded clutch, fuel system, oil pump, timing belt and turbo replaced etc etc. that might save you a lot of money down the track.

and i should know! ive had mine for 9 months and lost 2 engines, a turbo, clutch, aforementioned tyres, air con, battery. ill also have to replace the pod because it doesnt appear to offer any filtration as such.

also, dont be fooled by "warranties". i got $1500 for my engine and that was after several weeks of abusing them. now i have to go through office of fair trading for the rest.

i would advise you to get a mechanic to do a compression test on the engine. but most of all i wish you good luck and you enjoy your promotion to a real car!

Just thought I'd mention that I'm selling my Series II R33 - see link in my signature below.

Not wanting to sound too much like a salesman, I'll just point out that it's a lot of car for not much more than what you'd pay for a standard late model R33 in the same pristine condition.

Feel free to contact me if you're interested.

Just thought I'd mention that I'm selling my Series II R33 - see link in my signature below.

Not wanting to sound too much like a salesman, I'll just point out that it's a lot of car for not much more than what you'd pay for a standard late model R33 in the same pristine condition.

Feel free to contact me if you're interested.

buy that ^^^

update had a look at a couple of R33s

right now i'm interested in one,

wanted to know for insurance how much should i quote the value of the following items:

coilovers

18" bbs wheels

hks exhaust

gtr style bodykit

ECRO33: sorry mate, it's a nice car but i'm not really in the market for such a modified vehicle, i don't think i'll be able to handle that much power...

TaKz,

No point. Just list them anyway as mods/accessories. Whatever you purchase the car for, that will be the agreed value unless yourself have spent alot of time and effort putting those mods on, you might get say another 1-2k more on the agreed value. As long as you tell them about it, they'll still be covered.

a bit of an update!!

deposit is in!!!

will be picking up the car end of the week or early next week!!!

can't wait!

not much done to the car relatively stock which it will remain until i finish uni!

and yes im having alarm/immobiliser and insurance done before i drive it out of the dealer!

a bit about the car:

1997 r33 series 2

gtr wannabe kit i.e 400r front bar

hks exhaust

18" bbs rims

coilovers

i live in the northern beaches hopefulli see some of you guys around soon!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...