Jump to content
SAU Community

New Member.

Line

By Line,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

shnugs Rookie

shnugs

Posted
Posted
Hi,

I'm a new a new member here.

Cool, me too.

My R33 is a 97model. GTR-T. Shiny white. Mmm shiny. So grats on the car! Lots of fun!

Recently got myself some 2nd hand back tires from Northwest in Fyshwick. Im DARN poor after Autotech stuffed up an inspection on my car. Bought the darn thing only to have problems. Oh well. Still, tires seem pretty good and was charged $150ea.

Sooooo need money hahaha :blink:

shnugs Rookie

shnugs

Posted
Posted
He meant GTS-T.

I think "doh" fits in here rather well.

As with the 2nd hand tires... Northwest went over the tires with me. Still had all the tread and what-not. Havnt had any problems so-far and the guys seemed pretty honost.

Plus I know some other people who buy from them. They never had a problem with their 2nd hand tires.

As they say, "time will tell". :D

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Im not saying that the guys at Northwest tyres are dodgy or anything.

Im saying that tyres can be destroyed by users even without showing signs of wear, if the person who bought and used the tyres before you did a burnout on them when they were brand new then the compound will be no good as doing that sort of thing kills the tread compound.

Also the tyres could have defects in the carcass such as spread or broken cords which wont show up unless the tyre is fitted and inflated and sometimes wont show up straight away, it can take a few km's before you see a buldge in the tread or sidewall.

Also the tyres may have been used under inflated which stresses the cords and sidewall construction inside the carcass causing premature wear and internal damage, sometimes if the tyre has had this happen for even a couple of hundred km's it may weaken the casing meaning that there is an increased chance of puncture.

Good luck with them though, I honestly hope that you got a good set :D

Edited by Bullet32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...