Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Firstly, I have an R33 GTS25t, and am really enjoying going through the forums finding neat diy mods that you guys have written up. For my next little project I am wanting to trigger the 'safe mode' of the ECU. I understand the engine has this to allow one to "limp" to a garage if it senses a problem. I have a few questions:

1) What is the 'safe mode' and how does it limit the engine (and to what extent)

2) Is the 'safe mode' safe to run if triggered in normal driving conditions?

3) Can the 'safe mode' be triggered using a +12V supply?

Please note that i have tried a search, but the search function is piss poor, either that or I'm just shit at using it.

Also a bit off topic - what is the supply voltage for a gauge light - 12V?

Cheers, Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197432-triggering-safe-mode/
Share on other sites

1) safe mode limits the engine to 2500rpm approx, and de-powers it. literally limps it.

2) wouldnt want to have the car activate safe mode when driving normal. could cause problems.

3) no cant be triggered using 12v. its a sensor generated reaction to a problem

plus y are u wanting to trigger safe mode?

thought I might try to use it as a valet mode sort of thing, using the high boost switch as a trigger ie. when valet system activated, say a friend can drive car around fine, but if pushed past 4500rpm safe mode is triggered, requiring restart of engine. Obviously would inform person driving not to go past 4500rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...