Jump to content
SAU Community

Hid's

7yphon

By 7yphon,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Best company? well, how much do you want to pay?

I bought some from Bankids, best price and worked well, so that's where my vote goes

Another option would be Jshop, they can install for you too, if you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself.

Just on the note of legality, they Dont have to have a projector lens (some cars come out with HIDs and no projector, but have specially designed 'hoods' to prevent the light going where it shouldn't), but Must be self leveling and have washers fitted (ADRs) for the reasons as pointed out above.

Also, the road traffic act states the colour of headlights should be 'white' which doesnt say much for the older cars with yellow tinged headlights, but basically if you go for a blue/purple tinge, you are asking for trouble ;) Best light to use is around 4300K, which gives more light than the other colours anyways, and does have a very slight blue tinge like the mercs,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198973-hids/page/2/#findComment-3606086
Share on other sites
MLCrisis Proficient

MLCrisis

Posted
Posted

OK - I can understand the self-levelling requirement as a safeguard against the potential for badly adjusted lights to blind oncoming motorists. But why require washers? Is the light quality such that dirt on the lens will cause light dispersion and thus dazzle oncoming motorists? But that still requires you to use your washers - they are not self-washing!! I reckon I wash my car more often than I use my screen washers. Or are the Thought Police going to pull all BMW/Merc/Landrover/etc drivers over and give them a yellow for not using their screen & headlight washers recently?

I realise that expecting some logic behind particular ADRs may be unrealistic, but I thought I would ask!

I had a think about keeping the Xenons on my GTR when I got it. At the time, nobody could tell me why they had to be removed for compliance. Now my question is whether or not I can get a self-levelling kit for the R34? (Some hope!)

I will also postpone the oil cooler and spend my cash on fixing a washer line to each headlight!

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198973-hids/page/2/#findComment-3617023
Share on other sites
Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Instead of spending money on washers and self levelers etc, I would personally just leave them in there.

I had HIDs on my sil80 for ages, NEVER got attention from cops (also had them with my strawberry face) - keep them adjusted properly, use a normal colour of bulb and you wont have any hassles.

If for some reason you get pinged and need to go over the pits, don't stress too much as they are an easy swap to normal bulbs IF they say anything... (also there are imports on the road that got past compliance with their HIDs in place, such as my wife's Celsior)

Its seems pretty bizarre that a country of over 200million people (japan) that is very public safety and consideration to others focused doesn't have a requirement for self leveling/washers and has hids on their roads as OEM equipment for a long time without dramas.

Maybe the ADR is just another example bureaucracy gone mad

Is there anyone on here that can give an accurate idea of the thinking behind these particular ADRs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198973-hids/page/2/#findComment-3618900
Share on other sites
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
I had HIDs on my sil80 for ages, NEVER got attention from cops (also had them with my strawberry face) - keep them adjusted properly, use a normal colour of bulb and you wont have any hassles.

I know someone who got defected for HID's but they were bright and on a 4WD so they were a little annoying.

That and the Vicroads guy was looking for anything to defect on so if it wasn't HID's then it would probably by the windscreen washer nozzle was on the wrong angle :).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198973-hids/page/2/#findComment-3620472
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...