Jump to content
SAU Community

New Front Mount - Intercooler Nipple Line?

puke22

By puke22,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

puke22 Contributor

puke22

Posted
Posted

just finished installing a cooling pro fmic on a 95 r33, there is no nipple in the cooling pipes, what do i do with that line now? the kit included a t piece, and ive read in other installation guides in here what you do, but i dont know what the appreviations mean, or where what is (very new to diy and skylines)

"then had to plumb in the intercooler line.. ther is no nipple so i cut the vac line from TB and inserted a HKS T piece (HKS POWAH AND SPORTS)." <----

thats the line im left over with right? if so how do u explain that to some one who.. well doens't know what it means!

sorry for the slowness

thanks for the help!

R33 S2 Collaborator

R33 S2

Posted
Posted
just finished installing a cooling pro fmic on a 95 r33, there is no nipple in the cooling pipes, what do i do with that line now? the kit included a t piece, and ive read in other installation guides in here what you do, but i dont know what the appreviations mean, or where what is (very new to diy and skylines)

"then had to plumb in the intercooler line.. ther is no nipple so i cut the vac line from TB and inserted a HKS T piece (HKS POWAH AND SPORTS)." <----

thats the line im left over with right? if so how do u explain that to some one who.. well doens't know what it means!

sorry for the slowness

thanks for the help!

take a look at this pic.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=126534

thats where i have mine connected. i went to repco (or most car shops should have them) and bought a screwin brass nipple. took the cooler pipe off and drilled and tapped a thread into it. then used som,e of that white plumber tape too seal it off so it didnt leak. you could also weld around it but mine didnt leak so i didnt bother.

search nipple there should be heaps of info on it

goodluck

steve!

FAT_3L Collaborator

FAT_3L

Posted
Posted

i just installed my intercooler aswell and put a nipple after the cooler next to the head but the boost went from 6psi to 9-10psi without touching anything else. is that meant to do that??

Also i had a bov that i took off, what do i do with the line that was going to that,block it off??

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted
i just installed my intercooler aswell and put a nipple after the cooler next to the head but the boost went from 6psi to 9-10psi without touching anything else. is that meant to do that??

You need to put the nipple after the turbo but before the intercooler

Also i had a bov that i took off, what do i do with the line that was going to that,block it off??

Yes - block it off. (or run the line to your new BOV

SN33KY_SN33KY Rookie

SN33KY_SN33KY

Posted
Posted

a mate of mine told me instead of putting a new nipple on the pipe u could put the line somewhere else near the intake plenum?? has anyone elseheard of this? if so where would it go??

  • 1 month later...
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

not needed on an RB20.

RB20 turbo has the nipple on the front of the turbo (compressor housing).

rb20turbofront.jpg

see the vacuum line that goes from the wastegate actuator (the circle thing to the right hand side of the turbo entry) to the compressor cover.

RB20's don't use a boost controller valve to control boost.

the spring that is in that wastegate actuator is made to keep the waste gate closed for long enough to flow 10psi of air through. then it opens.

The RB25 turbo has a standard wastegate actuator spring of 5psi.

so they use an electronic valve to increase this to 7psi after 4500rpm or something.

so the vacuum line an RB25 goes from the turbo wastegate actuator, to the electronic controler (attached to the suspension tower right in front of the power steering canister, has a blue vacuum line going to it)

10.jpg

from there, in a stock RB25, it goes to a nipple on the pipe that goes from the turbo to the intercooler.

long story with pictures short...

RB20 doesn't need nipple..

Edited by GTST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...