Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

Build a rb25de + rb30e, Aftermarket set of cam shafts, And been told to use flat top pistons for the higher comp.

But after having a look at stock rb30e pistons, there are ingraves for the valves to 'sit' Wouldnt flat tops + Aggressive cams mean theres a good chance something is going to kiss each other... hard.?

I know there is a thread with 290 pages of rb30de convo goodness but bloody hell!

*Injector upgrade? Its going to be NA, will the rb25de 'jectors be enough?

*Anymore pointers would be great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199902-rb30de/
Share on other sites

have a look at this..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html

I heard of people using both sets of pistons..

Injectors should be ok.. unless your wianting to push more than say 130kw.. then RB25DET is the go.. cheap alutnatives.. same with a fuel pump..

Where are you getting ur cams from?.. from a turbo? NA's get more power from the overlap in the cams.. so if your using turbo cams you may not be extracting the full potential out of the engine..

Also.. the CR your running will also determin if things go bump in your engine..

max stock regrounded cams is on the link above too..

Hope it helps mate

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199902-rb30de/#findComment-3560171
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
×
×
  • Create New...