Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i got a crack on my fibreglass front bar, like where the wheel arch is!!

i was wondering if left unattended will it just spread like virus from driving around, or only if i keep scraping?!?!?

cuase i was thinking of just driving it around until my front bar is tottaly farked and then changing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200044-cracked-front-bar/
Share on other sites

when i got my car transported from vic to W.a about 8 months ago they drove my front bar straight into the ramps and put some HUGE cracks near where the kit attaches to the guard and on the front because my car is low..

anyway its a fibre glass kit and i have just left it and it hasn't got any worse for the past 8 months of driving and mine hits speed humps and driveways all the time.

so your safe from any viruses but it does look like crap :yes:

depends where exactly near the wheel arch it has cracked and how bad they are. post up some pics of it and ill be able to give u an idea on its strength and how long it will maintain its shape for. i work with fibreglass and carbon fibre all day everyday, so depending on where you are i would be able to help you out repairing and strengthening it if you want.

well the one on the front lip isnt to bad. to strengthen all these areas you can by a diy fibreglass repair kit from autobahn for $28. it an easy way to fibreglass behind all the crack points to harden them up and reduce the amount of movement they have.

front lip crack: easy fix, glass the rear of the bar, then use bog to fill the void on top and sand to smoove. prep for re-spray with primer.

side wheel arch: bit of a harder fix coz by the look of it, the bar has splintered all the way through and is 2 seperate pieces almost. still u glass the back of it once the bar is aligned as best as possible and then before doing anything to the front side of the bar, sand away loose fibreglass, and lay maybe 1 or 2 layers of fibreglass into the area. to do this cut a piece the size of the area and apply resin to it away from the bar and just lay it in position. then again, bog and sand and prep for paint with primer.

if your in melb and would like a hand to do this repair im more than happy to help out for a slab of jim beam and coke :)

Edited by cheez

Mate, you'll need the following and you CAN fix it yourself but will need someone to respray the whole frontbar.

If you want to DIY this then cool, otherwise you can get a panel beater to obviously fix it.

Look, just get yourself some quick-dry filler (bog as it's known to) - sand the whole bar down to get rid of any rough surfices first - then apply the bog onto the cracked areas (both the front and under areas) - now leather the bog nicely across all the cracked areas. Give it around 1 hour to fully dry, then get some good sandpaper and sand away until the filler is fully nitted to the kit... now, apply the bog again for another layer - then do the same... I would also suggest you use some superglue to reinforce the bog from under the kit - now sand away... prime the bar and get it resprayed... I did to mine every time there's a severe crack and it's look new as the way I first laid eyes on it.

Good luck mate.

for all that work kevin, bog will crack at first hit. he's better off doing it wih fibreglass than bog if hes DIY the bar. but if u just wanna tape it use some black racing tape. the thick duct tape. that will be fine, but i wouldnt put it on the front of the bar just the side section.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...