Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! Where Do These Hoses Go?

Fujiwara

By Fujiwara,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fujiwara Proficient

Fujiwara

Posted
Posted

I need help guys.

Tried a DIY to change my coilpack covers and succeeded changing the cover but i don't know where the hoses go.

If you look in this picture, there is a small hose (6mm-ish in dia) with a round thing (red top) on it.

Where does this hose go? The one with the red line around it :cheers:

post-38029-1199738557_thumb.jpg

Also, this hose i initially connected it up to the piece sticking out between the Breather Pipe and BOV.

post-38029-1199738693_thumb.jpg

Car started up fine with this setup, no CEL etc.

However i didn't drive it around as i didn't want to drive with 1 disconnected hose.

So i changed it around to this setup

This is the front side of the breather pipe.

From this pic it's hard to see, but there is a little piece sticking out on the other side where the small rubber hose is.

post-38029-1199738737_thumb.jpg

I connected the hose with the round red top piece to the fitting between the BOV and Breather Pipe

post-38029-1199738811_thumb.jpg

As you can see in this final pic, the hose in yellow goes to the other end of the breather pipe hose (that is located under the breather pipe.

The hose in red (with the circular thing) connects to the bit between the breather pipe and BOV

post-38029-1199738874_thumb.jpg

Started car and it works fine, no CEL light etc.

SO.....how do i connect it up and is my 2nd attempt right?

PLEASE~~~ I NEED HELP AS I DON'T WANT TO STUFF UP MY CAR~~

Many thanks in advance.

Paul

ps. If you need any more pics, i will get some for you. Just let me know what you need to see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200606-help-where-do-these-hoses-go/
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

top one is aftermarket. Those little filter things aren't factory AFAIK unless nissan changed their thinking between r33 and 34. Probably for a boost gauge or something. Cant see where it connects to which will confirm what it's for.

2 and 3 should go to the charcoal canister. there should be a (roughly) 3mm vac/boost hose running from the throttle body to the little reg on top of the canister and a 5mm line running from the plenum to the canister.

4 and 5 are just the same hoses. Have you traced back to see where they connect to at the other end?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...