Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

If you have access to a welder then your in luck. Can be done with stick but mig is alot better for thin material. Well here i go to explain how to strenghen them

  • First off... you will notice nissan arms are three sided. If you box them in, they will obviously be alot stronger.
  • First you need to get cardboard (cereal box) and cut it up to the shape of the arm so that it fits.
  • Then cut out 3mm thick mild steel plate to the shape. I used oxy and then a bench grinder to shape. But if you dont have access to a oxy then a jigsaw may cut it.. and then angle grinder while holding it in vice you should be able to shape it.
  • setup welder and tack it all in place and make sure its sitting right. If not break the tack welds and re-try. Also reason to do a tack on each corner is so that the weld does not pull the metal out of place.
  • Once welded it burnt through the bushes but that was ok as they were replaced with superpro bushes.

Its pretty simple really. Can be done to any type of arm just gotta remember with control arms you need to leave room of a socket to get in for castor rod bolts and sway bar links.

post-39806-1200830101_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1200830123_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1200830146_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1200830166_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1200830191_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1200830209_thumb.jpg

Awesome idea! Very simple to do too! Will definitely do this when i chuck some 33 lcas in my 32.

One thing that comes to mind though, is that the LCA is often bent when theres a collision with a gutter or the like, so wouldnt this mean that the next weakest component will give way instead?

hmmm, $4,000 for new wheels to lighten load on suspension then add wieght back on with 50 cents of metal. You would need semi slicks and well sorted suspension to put enough load on the arms causing any sort of bending. Not a mod for street cars or weekend track cars. Actually, this would be ok for rally.

its a great idea yet ure proberly better off just drilling holes for the bolts u need to get to,

as doing it like u have would put alot more stress on the un reenforced part and might acuatly make the arm itself weaker under heavy loads as any flex or movment instead of being over the whole arm will be on the spot that isnt re inforced, also the spot that already has extra load as the castor arms bolt there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...