Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have two holes in my dash atm. One is where the immobolisor light once was, and the other is where another switch is. The bracket that held the immoboliser in place fell out and I lost it when I took the dash out, so the LED hanging out on a wire looks hideous. I could get a new clip, but I'd prefer to smooth the whole hing out a bit more.

The other switch controls the brightness of the Speedo and Tacho gauges, but looks really ugly. Its on the left of the steering column. I want to push it into the dash and if I need to adjust it I'll just pull the dash off and change it. I only have it on the brightest setting, so it isn't neccesary. Does anyone else have this?

Anyway, is there a way to fill the holes left from these two items? I also want to smooth over my coin tray in the centre console and put switches for different things these. If I have any coins, I'll put them in my walet!!

Rhys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204072-holy-dash/
Share on other sites

I've put black switches on my dash, 1 for the neons, 1 for the strobe light and 1 for the siren.

of course you can just put switches there that do nothing and save them for later

Edited by POLICE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204072-holy-dash/#findComment-3618004
Share on other sites

I could, but the switches would be all over the place, in random spots. I'd rather have them within easy reach all together in one spot. Is there a kind of putty or something I could fill it with? I'm planning on painting it anyway

kitty hair should work for you

after watching countless american modification shows, i realise that those awesome custom consoles and dashes are mostly kitty hair filler lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204072-holy-dash/#findComment-3622876
Share on other sites

also what would be good to fix cracks in the dash? coz on the bottom piece of the surrounding, the auto electrician made a 5cm-ish crack and also took a little chunk of it when he took it off...just want to no how to fix it also..

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204072-holy-dash/#findComment-3624288
Share on other sites

also what would be good to fix cracks in the dash? coz on the bottom piece of the surrounding, the auto electrician made a 5cm-ish crack and also took a little chunk of it when he took it off...just want to no how to fix it also..

cheers

my suggestion - if you are going to paint it - is to weld it up using a soldering iron, just melt along the crack then force the 2 sides together, then prep for paint

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204072-holy-dash/#findComment-3625909
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...