Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Issues - Need Help

attncka

By attncka,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

attncka Newbie

attncka

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I have just recently bought myself an R33, with a MFIC ... pod filter and big exhaust .. the usual mods .. when i took the car for a test drive it the car yard was asking how it idled .. aparently it had an issue .. i never had problems ... and it had a dodgy battery which needed replacing.

i got the car .. drove it home and it was fine, i changed the battery put a new one in it .. and then all my issues started it wont idle at all, go for a drive and when slowing down it wants to come to a stall .. or it will idle very low and then come to the verge of stalling.

I fiddled with the IAC and the throttle position sensor to get it right .. set it to a good idle ... rev it and it all runs fine .. take it for a drive .. and it will either run fine for a moment .. till i turn the car off .. or run like s**t. I took it to a skyline specialist here in perth .. and he set the idle for a high idle .. and told me my BOV was leaking .. i fixed that issue .. set the idle back and still wont idle properly.

have been over everything .. and have no idea what to fix it ... could i have an AFM issue .. a computer issue ( i mean as it was fine till i changed the battery and rang like s**t after the new battery went in it ) or an throttle position switch issue

if you can help me out and give me some tips or opinions it would be helpful

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204200-idle-issues-need-help/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Shmee33 Rising Star

Shmee33

Posted
Posted

mate i have the same problem, when its cold its good to idle and sart, but when it warms up it goes to 900 then drops to 50 -100 and sometimes stalls.

what do you think is wrong?

i have just replace the tps in it

marni Collaborator

marni

Posted
Posted

This may sound strange but our R33 (sII) was idling at 1500rpm and we couldnt figure out why, firstly we got some carby cleaner as the throttle body was gummed up with carbon, then by chance we pulled out the idle stepper motor to find a piece of our impeller blade (we blew out the stock turbo 2 weeks earlier...) was not letting the plunger motor sit on its seat, so after we cleaned that out too and put her back together she was fine....

Hope u find out wats wrong with yours!!!!

post-47515-1203597918_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...