Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all thought i'd throw up some pic's of my one8 i'm trying to get together for the 08 vicdrift series.

Turbo is trust TD06 L2

stock donk

solid urethane mounts

trust sump

blah blah wank wank heres the pic's

red one8

P1000256.jpg

L2 biarch!

P1000266.jpg

intake pipe.....probably could have done a few cuts to make it look more "custom fabed" but i'm a lazy sod!

P1000294.jpg

I mounted the cooler and rad behind the rad support to decrease piping lengtht and prevent damage to those systems in the event of a little "nudge" lol

P1000302.jpg

I also mounted the AFM (GTR nismo) in the throttle body side of the piping so it dosn't get affected by the remission "flutter" that would normally blow back past it on closed throttle. and because BEN told me to put it there.....lol

P1000293.jpg

P1000288.jpg

P1000289.jpg

i was quite nervous taking apart the nismo AFM......put it still works fine. yay!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204905-new-drift-one8-for-08/
Share on other sites

from the front...you can see the brackets that hold the intercooler up level with the top of the rad.this setup also makes for easy ducting!

P1000300.jpg

the AFM mounted in its new little home

P1000314.jpg

the piping on the hot side shal be a bit easier.......once again my lazyness playing a part here..

P1000301.jpg

gunna need to weld a bend onto the turbo.....will look neater and wont "pop off" under hard boost and high temps.....as they like to do.

P1000311.jpg

wasn't real keen taking a hack saw to my NEW trust L2 either!

P1000311.jpg

but it worked out ok.........if you do this remember to let it cool down very slowly.....i rapped it in a blanket straight after welding.

P1000312.jpg

cooler brackets....

P1000319.jpg

rusty bit of angle iron for the rad support underneath....

P1000297.jpg

Because the rad is now so close to the motor i need to make the rad piping to suit......actually i should say "we"...my house mate is the welder.....i just cut and tell him what i want...lol

P1000295.jpg

just to confuse you here's the gearbox mount.......didn't see that coming did ya?

P1000268.jpg

gotta silicon the AFM top back on to keep out the nasties..

P1000318.jpg

starting to come together..

P1000317.jpg

The rad piping.....like all drifters/home owners i'm broke so am to "tight" to buy pretty silicon for the rad...

P1000320.jpg

the bottom line proved to be more of a head ache to make than its worth........but i had already cut up the original to join the top line. :D

P1000321.jpg

this bit= not worth the pain! keep your stock one or if you must upgrade buy a silicon one!

P1000323.jpg

I'll prob put up some more pic's later......so check back

Cheers Waz

Looks great Warwick.

is that a Cast elbow welded onto the compressor housing? where from?

love builds like this over the normal bolt on style stuff, so much more rewarding.

only thing i would have done different is have the AFM box under the pipe - or is it too close to the fan ?

edit : few days on a polishing wheel and the will look amazing

yeah the fan is close.....but so is the bonnet when shut either way if you were gunna do this be sure to check clearences first.

If ya look close in this one you can see the engine mounts....solid as a rock....stearing wheel vibrates a little.....just adds to the feel.

P1000264.jpg

got my seats and pimp fur in as well! yay

P1000296.jpg

this is the car before i bought it....a long time ago.......Trents old car i believe....It has street cred as it has be thrashed by a D1 driver.... lol

avatar5.jpg

I still have to make a custom oil catch can and a rad over flow bottle...coming soon

spaced the bonnet up as i'm a tight ass and cant afford a vented fibre glass one.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-2.jpg

close up of the bend and hot pipe.....i cut down the bend and the turbo housing to make the bend look tighter.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-1.jpg

The radiator i bought from JUST JAP leaked like a cive! from around the cap fitting so i ripped it off and welded on a speedflow item! much better.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-6.jpg

Finished piping pic...still need overflow and catch can....

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnerguards.jpg

just enough room to fit my temp gauge sensor.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-7.jpg

Brake booster stopper....sard 550 injectors

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-8.jpg

im not sure how the sr20's are in this area, but the step down on the oil breather i would avoid - reduce anychance of a restriction pressurising the motor -

rb25's dont like too small piping on the breathers

I have fitted a power bond under size harmonic balancer to reduce cavitation in the water pump and powerstearing issue's. I also fitted a Trust sump for extra oil cappacity.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-11.jpg

sparco wheel and pedals, cusco hand brake grip, water temp,oil pressure and boost gauge fitted.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-9.jpg

closer look at the finshed hot pipe side.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-10.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Nice work on the pipes bit late know but for next time try useing spun donut's for those really tight rad's save doing all tose lobster back joint and welds if you need to know were to get them pm me back and I'll send you in right direction

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...