Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh, one other thing about my turbo - the "bodgy" bit about the install wasn't the turbo itself, but rather the weak spring used to pull back the sticky wastegate pivot, as well as the welded-up and cut pivot. Once this is fixed I won't need the extra external spring and it won't look bodgy anymore :( It is a standard T04E turbo.

Actually Jay, you're the first person to ask :( This is probably because before today, I didn't even know what my turbo was. The engineer guy at Garrett instantly identified it as a T04E without even noting anything unusual about it, so I'd say it's the full standard unit and not a T3/4 hybrid. The previous owner advertised it as a "450hp T04" but I forgot to ask any more details about it before buying the car.

I've always liked this turbo, but there's nothing else I can compare it to really (aside from some poxy TX3 turbos I've driven from waaaay back). Benm's car with the factory turbo was slightly faster than mine when I got it, but he had a better intercooler and air filter. Since I upgraded my cooler and plenum I'd say they are at least on par again, and now I can also run higher boost due to the steel wheels.

My turbo seems to start spooling fairly low (maybe 2000rpm?) but it doesn't seem to hit maximum boost until 4500rpm or so. I always thought this was an anomoly of the turbo, but now I've found that the wastegate wasn't working properly it could just be that.

I'll re-evaluate it again once the wastegate is fixed. Maybe it is a lag monster relatively speaking, but it doesn't seem to bother me. I can still pull up a hill in 5th gear with a carful of passengers, so it must be doing something at lowish revs.

Hehe...cool. It doesn't seem like a lag monster if it's making boost around 2000rpm...that's actually very responsive. I used to have a GT3037S on a 2L and that was laggy, like no boost until around 3500rpm!! Too laggy for street use, but when it came on boost it was great ;) I think I'll try the GT2835PRO S for my next 2L.

Well that's the thing - it always felt like it was making boost early, but with my foot to the floor, it never got to full boost until around 4500rpm (maybe 5000). Going from what other people have posted here it should have been 500-1000rpm earlier than that to be considered an "early boost" type turbo.

I won't mind if it's around the same after it comes back, it was a gradual transition to max boost rather than a punch in the kidneys.

Fixing the wastegate should at least reduce the strain on my poor EBC, which has been fighting against this sticky pivot for well over a year now. If it brings full boost on earlier then that's a bonus.

Well you can definitely feel it kick in, a lot more than getting to the sweet spot on a lumpy cam on a NA engine (as I get on my bike). It's just not as harsh as some cars I've been in, which makes cornering a little more predictable.

I dunno, "feeling" of turbos kicking in is very subjective. One person might think the turbo kick is excessive, when another will think that the car doesn't even have a turbo. If we are ever at the same cruise I'll take you for a spin and you decide :D

Yeah, it is subjective I guess. I've heard that some RWD cars running large turbos tend to wheel spin when the turbo kicks in. Can get very dangerous in the wet, but if this happens, you know that it's a pretty big thump! :D

Never been in a car that does this, because my car is AWD and traction is rarely a problem. Though my sister has a stock s15 and it feels a lot more dangerous in the wet, even when my car had 206kW at all four wheels. It's really easy to get the rear end outwards when turning a corner (s15). And I can imagine it would be very difficult to control with 200+KW at the rear wheels. But I guess 10" width rims would give a little more traction...

I got the turbo back this morning and put it back in the car this afternoon, it was a lot easier than taking it off because I knew where everything went and where to get the spanners in.

Including getting everything like the exhaust sealing compound on it took me around an hour. The whole wastegate was replaced, apparently the old one was pretty stuffed. The new one operates very smoothly and with no freeplay at all.

I noticed that the spacer for the turbo mounting isn't normal because it causes the nuts to not go all the way down on the studs. I tried taking it out but then the turbo touches on the engine, so I put the spacer back in and did the nuts up a bit tighter than they were originally.

I haven't gone for a test drive yet because after all this I took the fuel pump out, but it all starts up and runs ok. I did a big coolant flush and put new coolant in and bled the system. The new fuel pump should be in tomorrow afternoon so I'll see how it goes after that.

Oh, the big thing - the rattling noise is now completely gone! Obviously the dud wastegate was the entire cause of the noise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...