Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Another Silly Atmo Bov Question


Recommended Posts

NO BANANAS FOR YOU! i turned off the ebc so I was only running 8 pound.... unless its on R&R all the time, NO FIX! the car feels sluggish and not fun.... I wouldnt be hitting R&R at 8 pound would I? One reason I think I'm not is that I am sucking through the standard airbox without the snorkel... I.e. its drawing hot as air from the engine....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Explain this again.

you are in lets say 2nd gear.

foot to the floor, you accelerate to 6000rpm?

then step on clutch to change gears.

you hear some flutter and the car jerks a little (while you are off the gas).

or does the jerking happen once you've got in to next gear and plant it again?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm.... good questions ask you....

I drive the car pretty easy most of the time. So when changing normally around town (3000rpm) I dont shift extremely quickly and you can feel the car jerk around a little bit, feels as though the pressure is bouncing around a fair bit....

When at high rpm, and quickly changing between gears, it doesnt seem to jerk as much.... Less time for the air to bounce around???

I read through the R&R stuff on other threads and I'm sure the car is suffering from it, however this seems different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

but explain the moment of the jerking (eewww)

is it, when foot is on clutch, or when in gear and accelerating AFTER changing gears?

may be a stupid question but have you taken the stock bov off and checked to make sure it's not blocked off with a plate?

or that the plumback line doesn't have a cork of some kind in there?

this is the way I see it.

1.) car jerks when accelerating after chaning gears.. as in you are back on the boost = R&R

2.) car jerks when you are off the accelerator AFTER boosting = blocked bov.

you have said that you get flutter so I am leaning towards the fact that either the bov is blocked or that the tiny bleed hole under the bov base is blocked.

either way.

a few clamps and 2 bolts and the bov comes off.

remove it and check what I mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm getting this same problem, it jerks when i get back onto the gas after a gear change ie: if i rev it up and dump it into the next gear i get a nice fart and jerk before i go anywhere.

Got a highflow with chipped ecu and z32 afm

getting a gtr bov this arvo so maybe it might fix it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Litte from colum a little from column b

Maybe both at the same time if im up to it lol

On a more serious note, do you know why it jerks?

Seems like its overfueling for some reason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if it's always done it

I never used to drive it that hard so i've only started to notice it recently

Nothings changed since anyway

I haven't got a working scanner atm but my afr's are pretty flat along the 11's since its tuned for 20psi and im only running 15ish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I definitely get the low power, sporty car to drive to smash gears but not be doing eleventy million miles an hour! It makes all the normal drives fun!   Rev match tune sounds like the funs! I didn't know the NC had a DBW throttle!   As for me, still have the Skyline, it still has the Barra in it. It's been pushed to the side of the workshop at the moment. Pretty much waiting on me finishing the wiring, and dropping new fuel lines in. Got myself an ACDC Tig end of last year so been teaching myself TIG welding to build a few things for the Skyline. The missus wrote off her GTB liberty at the end of last year, and got it back on salvage rights stupid cheap. It's also still registered, so will mean easier for me to take to the track already done most of the panel damage, just playing "clear the workshop" to make space to pull the motor and box out, fix some oil leaks, replace the clutch, and replace a few minor broken things.  Also got a Lathe at the start of the year, which is adding to the annoyance of no space, which is another reason I'm trying to build things to get more space, to get the Lathe back in a final home for it. It's a BIG lathe, can turn a 355mm diameter, and 1metre between centres... Got it at a steal! So between it and the TIG and old MIG welder, I'll be fabbing some fun little shit up But we've had a lot of shit stuff happening at home, so it's slow going getting things done. But one step at a time!
    • I love Catalunya.  Got a 1:54.632. The AMG is a hoot.
    • I hadn't got that far, my main worry was the connection to the actual calipers themselves. I'm just using new (ish) stock brake lines in the stock setup. I've just had a stud welded to the knuckle that is a little lower than the original stud (so my knuckles have two studs each side) to not have it be stretched so far in previous BBK setups, so the "block" (in the second picture) mounts a little lower for me and I hope I don't need to change anything. I may have even changed the connection to the calipers in the past and have since forgotten I did that. I may not have. Guess how I'm gonna find out. Source: hopium
    • It's more so I'm using the 1x piece line from HEL that goes from the body to the caliper. There's no middle block/mount like the HFM ones or the GKtech ones. There are certain angles/suspension compression where the line actually slightly contacts the ARB. Below of how mine sit (not my photo): How I want it:  
    • Oh I have mine all sitting in boxes ready to go, two sets of rotors, four sets of pads and caliper rebuild kits. They send a survey asking me if I had installed them months ago :p Grinder not necessary to fit the fronts, and not *really* for the rears. They have some good simple videos on how-to. I don't understand brake lines but from what I understand... somehow... OEM lines work, even though people say 350Z and 370Z use different banjo bolts, so it's possible 350'z had some different setup that Nissan changed to the 370Z/R33/R34 system? ....though are a little short, but past-me made a new bolt hole to bolt them to to reach my current fronts so I should be okay... maybe. In any case HFM don't sell any *different* line kits for R33/R34 front brakes than they do for the 370Z kits. So in my mind they must be compatible or they would have different products made to suit the different calipers. Please test and confirm for me kthx.
×
×
  • Create New...