Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got a 3inch highflow cat with no flanges from a seller off the forum, I spent most of the morning ringing exhaust shops to get flanges fitted, quotes were $70 to $100.

I found one for $50.

When I got there he said he had only one 3 inch flange and that he could use the flanges off the compliance cat, so I let him use them.

However he said he couldn't fit the temperature bung because I had to have the part for him, probably from Nissan.

What does the temperature bung do on the cat? Do I need it?

And where can I get it from in South Eastern suburbs, Victoria?

Regards,

Gareth

Temp sensor, ignore it.

So leave it hanging there so to speak? (I'll tie it up to something but it just won't be in the cat :laugh:.

From a quick read of the threads (searched for cat temperature bung and found nothing) its just used to warn you when the air in the cat is too hot?

Thanks for your help as always :down:

Regards,

Gareth

Correct, the surface area increasing matrix inside the cat (be it normal ceramic or metal) has a coating that provides a multi stage chemical converting process.

The process creates more heat after the cat then before (why road side RTA can use laser temp guns to make sure you cat hasn't been "gutted"

The sensor will trigger a lamp on the dash if it rises above a preset. This indicates either to lean mixtures at cruise (hot chamber mixtures), way too rich, and the fuel is burning in the dump pipe, or a blocked cat.

So tie it somewhere, or just cut it off and remove lamp bulb in the dash.

Glad to help

Reading material if your interested

Edited by GeeTR

Thanks but to make things harder, the person who removed the flanges added some of the old cat to the new cat.

Its now about 3cm too long to even fit in! :laugh:

So now I can't drive the car until Tuesday while I wait for this guy to get back to work, and I have to take time off work so he can fix it.

When I got there he said he had only one 3 inch flange and that he could use the flanges off the compliance cat, so I let him use them.

your compliance flanges are probably smaller than 3 inch, most likely 2.25inch, which means you have created a restriction that shouldnt be there.

this exhaust place sounds dodgy.

your compliance flanges are probably smaller than 3 inch, most likely 2.25inch, which means you have created a restriction that shouldnt be there.

this exhaust place sounds dodgy.

Well I have a 3 inch exhaust so they probably put some larger flanges on to attach to the exhaust :)

The exhaust place I went to was VERY dodgy. The welds were also low quality so I'm hoping to get it properly done now.

The "bad" side does not even have a square weld on it.

Its going to have to be cut and re-welded (properly) on one side.

So tie it somewhere, or just cut it off and remove lamp bulb in the dash.

Reading material if your interested

I might have a quick read of that material later :).

In regard to the bulb in the dash why remove it?

I mean if I have the sensor tucked away, then its not going to get really hot and go off is it?

And if it does which light informs you that the cat is too hot?

Or is it just a function of the power FC?

Regards,

Gareth

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...