Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tring to diagnose my rev dropping off issue, i was just wondering what in the car changes when you reach operating temp?

My car is 100% fine until it reaches operating temp at which point it will randomly drop revs when i slow down/brake, and the idle will go up and down from 50 to about 1000 instead of being steady.

For what its worth, ive already cleaned the aac valve, but when i unplug it while the cars running it makes no change to the engine sound.

Also gave the afm a spray with contact cleaner.

Also using the stock bov.

So, what changes when an s2 r33 gtst reaches its operating temp?

Edited by delljit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209741-just-starting-vs-operating-temp/
Share on other sites

It sounds like a vacuum leak...The first thing I would check is your AAC valve which you have already done....

Also check your CAS is tight and hasn't rotated...Not likely but easy to check...

Also check all of your intake pipe work as well...When you drive it does it still make boost normally???

So, what changes when an s2 r33 gtst reaches its operating temp?

All EFI cars have a cold starting maps and as the car warms up the tuning will change...The ECU targets an idle set point but only adjust AAC valve to do this...So a vacuum leak may not make as much difference when the engine is cold so it appears to be normal but chnages when it warms up...

yeah it boosts fine

only thing is once its warm and the idle goes whack, the vac (factory boost gauge) goes whack too

The manifold vacuum will always drop as rpm drops...this is normal

Have you done any recent mods??...Also disconnect all sensor plugs and spray with contact cleaner or CRC to make sure they are ok...Do all of the ones you can see..It wont be wasted even if you do ones that are not likely to make a difference...ie fuel injectors...

Also turn on AC and see if that make any difference...if it does it is most likely a vac leak or AAC problem...(turning on AC open another solenoid next to the AAC solenoid)

how do i get into diagnostic mode to get a fault code? all i see thru searching is hizas diagnostic mode

sorry if thatsa dumb question but i mightve missed something witht he search function

edit: nevermind i think i found something http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...amp;pid=3180541

ill try tomorrow since i have to goto work now

Edited by delljit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Come to Eastwood, you'll get plenty of that 🤣
    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
×
×
  • Create New...