Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, getting some cash in a few weeks so im looking to get my 93 R32 GTS-T to around 190-200KW

Mods i have right now are:

FMIC 600x???

Turbotech bleed valve (havent boosted it)

3" catback

HKS air filter

Ive been discussing this with a few mates of mine trying to decide what to upgrade, i was told maybe to get:

RB25 turbo

GTR Injectors + resistors

Stock Airbox

3" full turbo back exhaust

Re-map

and this should give me around the power i wanted but im thinking of a bigger turbo.. i was looking for something low mount/hi-flow so cops couldnt tell what ive put in, just dont know what my options are an prices.. I know my mate was telling me i can get T4 internals put in for $1400 but i'd like to know what you guys think would be some good mod's and estimated prices plus how much it would cost me to get put in..

ive been reading alot of threads but yeah just kinda confused on whats low mount and whats not and yeah any suggestions would be good..

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210203-hmm-what-turbo-should-i-upgrade-to/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Rb25 turbo

Turbo back exhaust

Bosch 040

Intercooler

REMAP (CEF11E)

You can use all the standard intercooler piping and also use the stock air box and intake pipe

That won't cost jack shit and you should be able to make about up to 180rwkw on about 14psi

Will also be reliable and you don't have to go messing around with custom piping/exhaust or injectors

Car will pretty much look stock in the engine bay - which is great if you get pulled over

Low mount is just what your standard manifold and turbo is - how it sits down and you can't see the turbo when looking at it as piping covers it

If your not looking for anything more than about 190rwkw then an RB25 turbo would be perfect - looks stock and bolts straight on without any exhaust/lines/piping modifications

Other options are high flows but they are expensive - I would just rather buy a new GARRETT turbo instead of going down the high flow path

Something like a GT2871 would be good - not much lag and quick spool up

GT2530 for some good punchy power maybe up to 230rwkw with supporting mods

Even something like a GT2510 if your nothing looking at going to much over 200rwkw

options are endless, just depends what you want to do

I think I have just probably confused the shit out of you even more - and its about to get worse when people start posting

Draft up a plan/list and stick to it otherwise you will never get it finished or know where your heading

Also if your looking at going with the RB25 turbo upgrade path so up to 190rwkw you won't need to upgrade injectors either - stock injectors will be fine with a good fuel pump

Good luck :whistling:

yeah abu im trying to understand everything but im getting confused reading different posts and talking to different people lol.. kane was telling me im gonna need about 4000$ to get all this and install it:

3" dump pipe - 100

3" front pipe - 150

3" hi flow cat - 200

airbox - 150

rb25 turbo - 400

gtr injectors - 500

BOOST CONTROLLER - 250

POWER FC - 1000 or DR DRIFT REMAP/TUNE - 650

he said its better to get a dump and front pipe and a hi flow cat to use the catback i already have..

i keep getting confused between low mount and high flow and what i can put in to my car and have it not need and what would be seen.. also turbo sizes and prices, if i should get new or second hand.. ahhhhh so much to know lol

rb25 turbo - 180-190rwkw - $350

2510 - up to 210rwkw - $? double the above?

2530 - up to 230rwkw - $ as above.

GCG ball bearing hiflow - up to 240rwkw - $1900

all of those would bolt on to stock position.

these are just what the turbo's are capable of and what they cost to supply.

install, tune etc is all extra.

rb25 turbo - 180-190rwkw - $350

2510 - up to 210rwkw - $? double the above?

2530 - up to 230rwkw - $ as above.

GCG ball bearing hiflow - up to 240rwkw - $1900

all of those would bolt on to stock position.

these are just what the turbo's are capable of and what they cost to supply.

install, tune etc is all extra.

serious, are 2510's and 2530's only $700? or is that 2nd hand?

im thinkin about $2000-3000 to start modding up.. not finding many rb25 turbo's around on the forums and tbh im thinking something a bit bigger.. the 2510 doesnt sound too bad but im gonna need supporting modifications im just not 100% what i actually need so that i dont waste money like i was told if i put in a rb25 my stock injectors would be fine and i wouldve bought GTR injectors for no reason so yeah... GT2510 for up to 210kwkw for around $800 doesnt sound too bad.. how much would everything cost me like a re-map and whats better a full turbo back exhaust or get a dump/front pipe and hi flow cat?

edit: looking for some 2510 turbos on here doesnt seem to be any for sale at the moment theres nothing but old threads.. im guessing i might have to buy new or where else could i look for 2nd hand/new turbos?

Edited by cosmokram3r
im thinkin about $2000-3000 to start modding up.. not finding many rb25 turbo's around on the forums and tbh im thinking something a bit bigger.. the 2510 doesnt sound too bad but im gonna need supporting modifications im just not 100% what i actually need so that i dont waste money like i was told if i put in a rb25 my stock injectors would be fine and i wouldve bought GTR injectors for no reason so yeah... GT2510 for up to 210kwkw for around $800 doesnt sound too bad.. how much would everything cost me like a re-map and whats better a full turbo back exhaust or get a dump/front pipe and hi flow cat?

edit: looking for some 2510 turbos on here doesnt seem to be any for sale at the moment theres nothing but old threads.. im guessing i might have to buy new or where else could i look for 2nd hand/new turbos?

If you already got the Cat back part of the exhaust then you only the the Cat,and a combined Dump/front pipe from Just jap,think their about $250 and $160 for the hi-flow cat. All combined with your cat-back zorst you already got is whats known as a 'Turbo back zorst'

Cat-back is just the last half of the zorst after the catalytic converter

im thinkin about $2000-3000 to start modding up.. not finding many rb25 turbo's around on the forums and tbh im thinking something a bit bigger.. the 2510 doesnt sound too bad but im gonna need supporting modifications im just not 100% what i actually need so that i dont waste money like i was told if i put in a rb25 my stock injectors would be fine and i wouldve bought GTR injectors for no reason so yeah... GT2510 for up to 210kwkw for around $800 doesnt sound too bad.. how much would everything cost me like a re-map and whats better a full turbo back exhaust or get a dump/front pipe and hi flow cat?

edit: looking for some 2510 turbos on here doesnt seem to be any for sale at the moment theres nothing but old threads.. im guessing i might have to buy new or where else could i look for 2nd hand/new turbos?

the only place you will get a 2510 from is yahoo japan auctions and it may take a while to find one..

you can get them for 800ish may need to get lines made up though...

you wont need any support mods but i would get a turbo back exhaust.

you will only make over 200kw if you have a very healthy engine be happy with 190kw

get a tune set the boost to 16psi and rev limit to 7k cause its not gonna be making power up higher than that.

found one http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w17683540 but my japanese is rusty lol plus who knows if he would send it to australia and if the seller even speaks english to talk to me..

justjap looks like they havent got any used turbo's/front+dump pipes only new..

would i be looking at: JJR Split Dump & Front Pipe - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T Price: $269

High Flow Design - 3 inch Stainless Steel

so thats the combination dump/front pipe.. with the cat i currently have, could i take out of gut out the filter inside to make it high flow?

found one http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w17683540 but my japanese is rusty lol plus who knows if he would send it to australia and if the seller even speaks english to talk to me..

justjap looks like they havent got any used turbo's/front+dump pipes only new..

would i be looking at: JJR Split Dump & Front Pipe - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T Price: $269

High Flow Design - 3 inch Stainless Steel

so thats the combination dump/front pipe.. with the cat i currently have, could i take out of gut out the filter inside to make it high flow?

that turbo won't fit your rb20.

u can import parts from japan through importers, just give them an idea of what you want or a link to the auction page then they will organize shipping.

jesse streeter is pretty good to deal with

[email protected]

Hey guys, getting some cash in a few weeks so im looking to get my 93 R32 GTS-T to around 190-200KW

Mods i have right now are:

FMIC 600x???

Turbotech bleed valve (havent boosted it)

3" catback

HKS air filter

Ive been discussing this with a few mates of mine trying to decide what to upgrade, i was told maybe to get:

RB25 turbo

GTR Injectors + resistors

Stock Airbox

3" full turbo back exhaust

Re-map

and this should give me around the power i wanted but im thinking of a bigger turbo.. i was looking for something low mount/hi-flow so cops couldnt tell what ive put in, just dont know what my options are an prices.. I know my mate was telling me i can get T4 internals put in for $1400 but i'd like to know what you guys think would be some good mod's and estimated prices plus how much it would cost me to get put in..

ive been reading alot of threads but yeah just kinda confused on whats low mount and whats not and yeah any suggestions would be good..

Thanks

hey dude the cops cant touch you even if you hi mount the turbo and up grade to a t88 for example.

because the car came out as a turbo car. it can have any turbo you want on it. as long as you have it all plumbed in right eg(afm or air filter connected,screamer pipe plumbed back in and BOV plumbed back in) i know cause i just went through all that bullsh#$%t and got through no worries.

im runing a hi mount TD06-25G and i had no worries!!

as you can see the turbo looks alot higher than it is in first photo but in the second photo it all blends in.just some of the magic that secretgarage can do!!! give them a call.

if you have any questions on turbo installations call kurt or andrew from secretgarage on 0405982775 and they will be more than helpfull in all aspects! they did my car! :(

post-48107-1205402566_thumb.jpg

post-48107-1205402608_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...